Wednesday 27 October 2010

Istanbbul one crazy place

So here I am feeling fraudulent again floating at 90kms/h towards Istanbul some 160kms away. Its 1055hrs and as I was getting ready fir some more rain, a coach pulled over to let a passenger embark. I felt my left arm and thumb automatically extend and happily the driver stopped for me and the bike which slid effortlessly into a luggage bay. The coach is only a third full and will take me all the way to the city. Its pouring out so glad to be warm and dry. The bill though seems high at 15 Turkish Lira. I was able to giive him 5 euros and 5Tl, as I only have 10Tl left and must try to change for some again soon.
I camped last night in a garden surrounded by meteorological instruments. I had noticed this place on my town hunt for accomodation. I found two hotels and one wanted 35Tl or about 18 euros and another I managed to Haggle down to 20 Tl but the stark room offered on the top 4th floor with dodgy winding staircase put me off so I decided to scout about for a spot to camp. I had earlier passed a park with some community buildings and took a turn in there where I asked a group of 4 teenagers what the place was and if I could camp. No No they replied and with pidgeon English managed to explain that the place was frequented by unsociable drinking types and would be dangerous. They invited me to their 'School House' which turned out to be their school and the teachers who had less English than they, appeared somewhat suprised at whom their pupils had brought. An enquiry was made and reply that a hotel would be 35Tl. Thanking them for their help, I sauntered off
and made my way back to the weather station which is located about 100m from the main rd and therfore a little noisy but good soft lawn. I found the offices locked up, but saw a young boy peering through the window of an adjacent bungalow, I walked around the house and was met by a joung man who resided there. I beckoned him to come with me so I could mime the action of camping, whilst showing him my touring gear loaded on the bike. A quick phone call followed an agreement and he showed me to an area next to the weather station's office building, where I happily pitched my tent. He and his son came over to say hello a little later and I asked him if there was water available from the hose I had seen on the lawn. He managed some English and explained that there was no water to be had outside but asked his son to go and collect something. Keys for the office followed by a new 20 litre bottle of water.

A little while later, I took a walk up the hill into town and bought some olives, some red wine and a small packet of fruit gums for the little boy as a way of thanking him for letting me camp in his garden. On the way back to my tent, I noticed how quiet and peaceful the dangerous park appeared and thought how much quieter camping there may have been. Good thing though was I'd got permission and my tent and things were surely more secure as a result. Though I remember reading about Turkish culture ealier in the year when we holidayed as a family for a week back in August. Apparently thieves are considered the lowest of the low here in Turkey and stealing can be viewed more serious than a murder resulting from a partner's unfaithful actions for example. All about honour I understand. The Turkish people seem to be very nationalistic as there are flags all over. Its as if they are making sure that people know where they are all the time.
The terrain has been one of rolling hills aalong a straight busy two lane national road leading due east to Istanbul with occasional towns with not too pleasant multiple high rise appartment buidings abundant. I pulled of the road and visited a smaller farming community village yesterday which was more attractive to me even though the picnic area leading to the villlage was typically littered which I find unpleasant. They may have national pride with flags but do not seem to deal with litter in the same way. Not unlike many places I have travelled through and unfortunately laike back home in England I have to concede.
A quick visit to their village store with accompanying curiosity about one strange traveller on biciclette, produced a litre of fruit juice which I despatched gratefully. I didn't manage much mileage yesterday as my legs were feeling rather lazy battleing with the hills and head wind. You'd think I'd learn, but I still often manage to start off a bit too hastily rather than gently warming up to peak performance and then find I've strained my muscles a bit causing prolonged discomfort.

My first evening in Turkey you may remember, only night before last was spent at an hotel. Cheap at 15Tl, meant I could happily go for an evening wonder about the town. Unfortunately it was raining and I didn't get far. I was immediately distracted by a cake and cookie shop where I undulged in some very sweet pastries, also tasting a very creamy drink. All at 3 Tl, a bargain. Then I wondered into an cafe' and ordered some rice and meatballs with a youghurt type drink which is popular. Well, the rice arrived on a seperate dish with chick peas. So I had 4 plates altogether, Rice, meatballs, some very hot chillis and several slices of fresh bread. Perhaps I really looked hungry! Well I managed some of the bread but had to leave some and felt that they must have thought my eyes were too big for my tummy. The bill came to 10Tl so will try to avoid making the same mistake again next time.

The following morning, yesterday, I walked around the town looking for a bicycle shop. I was directed to a motorcyle/scooter spares shop which stocked some bicycle stuff but neither by tyres, nor my innertubes. I may have to widen the innertube valve hole to accept larger diameter valves as those types are more readily available.

This town Ipsala clearly caters for the surrounding farming community with many small tractor repair, spares and servicing business. The town gun shop has pistols, shot guns and two .22 air rifles at reasonable prices.
I also found out that a popular 2 stroke 70km/h pedalled moped can be purchased new at about €500.

I just caught a glimpse of the sea to the right so Istanbul ever nearer. 1220hrs still drizzling.

Once I have established a place to stay, I will try and find a helpful travel agent for some advice on onward travel. Maybe I can bypass Iran and Pakistan and head directly for India. Either way, I will have to sort oit visa's for all, India as well. I have a desire to see Iran and Pakistan but many folk have opinioned that travel there may be insecure. Others have said fine though with certain areas and travel after dark to be avoided. Back in Brighton, I met a retired Iranian doctor who enthuised about travelling through but also remarked that some areas were less secure. Like anywhere else really! As ever, time and budget will be important factors. India looms large so expect it to be a monster crossing. With Turkey and Iran also being big, I will most likely spend some days in Istanbul deciding next move. The resturant manager at the hotel where we stayed in the summer had following to say about Istanbul. Many joung men, unemployed with nothing to
do but scratch for a living in some way. Not a formula for peaceful, lawful and secure society he opinioned. Again, like many other places. Rain now pelting down. Should have asked the weather fella what to expect over the coming days. I'm looking forward to visiting Istanbul. Although I generally prefer villages to cities, this is one city that appeals as the gateway to Asia. Hopefully I can avoid the regular earthquakes and enjoy the city atmosophere and culture.
Have arrived and very wet, need to wonder around and continue to look for a place to stay but its 10pm already so could be a long night.

All for now,

S.

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