Home for Christmas via Mumbai

Its 0610hrs on Christmas day and here I am back in the fridge freezer having left wonderfully warm weather back in South India.

My return trip, a long haul, started in Goa where I boarded a train at 1800hrs and arrived the following morning at Mumbai 12 hours later at 6am early where it was still dark. I then had to make my way by cycle across the city from the south to the airport some 25kms to the north.

First impression of Mumbai, was of street people, women, children old and young living under plastic lean to's or simply sprawled under blankets in the street. I have only two photos, and one is a map of Mumbai which a young lad from Denmark had shown me of the city, and the other is an early morning street scene where some shacks have been built along the road in front of other decrepit buildings. Many of the shacks though supported the typical satellite dishes often seen in contrast. It's as though the satellite tv is more important than having windows or solid walls.

It was good for traffic reasons to have had an early start to my crossing the city and guided by my compass alone, I headed in a North West direction towards the smarter areas adjacent to the sea. Before long, I found a busy bakery type restaurant and enjoyed some grub and a cup of coffee. A policeman pointed my rough map position and off I went into much more traffic by now. Many more street folks, lots of them still asleep under their blankets ignoring the growing noisy streets. They were everywhere, on the pavements and some had found refuge on wooden carts and crates.

I came to an area next to the sea dominated by large residential flats and later a park which I decided to head through. There were two platoons of young marching ladies, one in step and the other not. They must have been the runners up. It was clearly a nationalistic bunch who released Indian flag coloured balloons after the marching, athletics sports day closing ceremony. Earlier I had been stopped at the park entrance and told that my cycle had to be left on the street. On seeing motorcycles parked in the park though, I chose to ignore this apparent rule which seemed only to apply to me. Later, when nearing the northern gate, another official tried to get me to return to the first gate thus doubling my sin. Again I waltzed on and got clear of the park before too much fuss followed.

As my flight back to London was only at 0230hrs the following morning, I had the whole day to reach the airport and much time to kill. I ate a good veg curry and found a wine store for a beer while I watched a good game of cricket played two high school teams. It was a hot sunny day so I returned to the wine store for another beer and a diet coke. On dismounting, I caught my foot on the bike's cross bar and promptly fell over backwards into the road and oncoming hoard of traffic which happily had not quite reached me from their green light stampede. Foolishly, I hopped back on my feet trying to recover all dignity with a sheepish grin. A couple of motorcyclists stopped to ask what the problem was to which I replied "Gravity!"

Apart from this cycling mishap, the first of my journey as I recall, I managed to reach the airport finally after a plate of seafood noodles and stocking up on some samoosas for the long rather boring flight wait until the following morning. In the evening I decided to walk off and hunt for a beer and a bag of crisps. Fending off the many taxi touts, I walked for a couple of miles and manged to find an ice cold lager and some spicy crisps which I enjoyed whilst walking past some significant construction going on around the airport.
Thus fortified, I finally made my way into the departure area at around 2300hrs. Then the "cannot be serious bringing that bike on the plane" fun started. They insisted on wedging my bike through an x-ray machine and inevitably it got stuck, so with much tugging to and fro, luggage seperated into supplied boxes, I finally made it into the waiting lounge with only time for a pee before heading to the departure gate. It took two and a half hours to get through security and check-in. I thought Turkish airlines and Istanbul had been a challenge, but the Indians took first prize. Apparently, I had been told and now agree that they have adopted British burocracy rather well.

So onto London with dread for the weather. Unlike me, but I fell asleep and missed dinner on the plane so pleaded starvation later and managed to get some leftovers. Arrived on time and waited rather long for all the seperate bits and finally got going without being stopped by the green men channel. Blimey, -1degrees felt really alien but the absense of continuos hooting and the pound I picked up along the road made up for it. Traffic here is positively civilised, quiet and orderly unlike the noisy hooligans from whenst I came. I had to keep checking my cowboy inclinations, as I adapted to become a bit of a road demon myself, a survival necessity you'll understand.

I cycled a good route from Heathrow with gloves and woolly hat, but feet like icebergs and a growing hunger forced me into a greasy spoon for some bread and butter, a coffee,eggs, beans, chips and sausage. Not quite the bargains I have been used to but at £4.75, I could not complain.

Reached home later in the afternoon after a few more thawing coffee/tea stops along the way. Body clock completely confused though as I keep waking at 3 am and am slaughtered by 2100hrs. No wonder, with the time difference and my journey from Goa to home having taken a constant 48hrs. I need a rest.

Merry Christmas all.

I hope to recommence my travels again before long.

In the Mountains but suddenly time is short

Just had a typical Indian breakfast of 2 rice grain paps and a single but fried version made to look like a ring doughnut. This is seved with the inevitable curried/spicy vegetable based gravy and some coconut milk with onions and spices. All washed down with a glass of pre-boiled water and a bill of Rs25 or about 30 nglish pence. I have been for an early hours walk tthis morning through the hills here around the mountain town of Munnar where I have spent the night in a small but adequately comfotable enough room costing Rs200 at Safa Lodge above the Bazaar fruit market. I eaten mostly at the adjacent Hazzarth Hotel (tea room), and recommend a fish and veg curry with rice available lunch times. There are many roadside stall offering snacks, one of which had some good veg soup yesterday.

Having spent most of my time here in India so far travelling northwards along the Kerala coast, I finally decided to head inland to ascend (2.5 days) the Western Gatts , the range of mountains between Kerala and the Tamil Nadu region here in the deep south and I believe extending well to the north.

Memories of the hilly terrain in SriLanka soon surfaced but I have enjoyed better roads (not always) and weather. Many stunning views with thick jungle sounds of running water and many bird calls in between the blasted blasting road traffic driven by drivers still determined to HOOT at every opportunity. Spitting seems not to help often appearing to result in even more shrieking horns so yesterday, I tried a new approach. Easier and more effective to those approaching from ahead, (though I tried with occasional success by turning through 90 degrees for the rear hooters) I pretent to be a nursey teacher beckoning peace and quiet from the children with a forefinger to the lips and a Shhhh sound. This is definitely a more successful approach resulting in an acknowleding smile and sheepish silence for a peaceful moment of harmony in the otherwise lushous surrounds. These darn tin cocoons are noisy enough without their insistant blasts at every approaching
being, animal, vehicle or turn. There are some signs along the road, two types I have seen so far sponsored by Vodafone whitch ask travellers to prevent forrest fires and not to Litter. The latter seems to encourage ejected filth all the more, causing a fire hazard with the unsightly mess. Another sign dispays 'Tourism works for you' but should read Tourism stinks. Non of the stall holders have bins outside their premises but sweep their shop fronts in the morning and either sweep the mess aside, throw it down a hillside or burn it as I have witnessed.
Yet walk to a place not frequented by this mass of humanity and one finds true beauty, harmony and peace. You may though need to walk a long way since there are humans seemingly everywhere, a feature of, I am told , the social society of the Kerala region (unlike other Indian States) where land and housing is given to all those who have a need or desire for a home.
My plan now is to return to Cochin via bus and then on to south of Goa by train where I will cycle north through Goa spending a couple of days around there and then train onwards to Mumbai which I will try to reach by the 22nd, as my return flight to Hideous Heathrow is early morning 0200hrs on the 23rd, now only six days away. Its been an enjoyable 3.5 months and I am really now looking forward to being with family over Christmas though will have to adapt quickly to the gloomy cold weather shock. A travel bug is what I have and I will soon have to treat it by carrying on with my planned 'awheeljourney'. I am also looking forward to adding some of the many travel pictures to the diary. I have met some wonderful folks along the way and owe many letters of thanks and photos from our shared experiences.
All for now.

A dissapointing Joy

Hi Karel,

I was cycling through the town of Fort Cochi when I came across a Christmas Carol singing event at one of the many churches in the tow.. That together with other recordings i had heard streaming out of people's windows earlier in the day really made me feel like I wanted to be home for Christmas after all.

So I have decided to return to London from Mumbai on the 23rd December thus cutting short my trip in India and delaying the rest of my planned journey which I hope to continue at a later date.

All the very best and have a good season. I am sure that we will be in touch before Christmas again.

S

India

So, first impressions of India. Mixed at the moment. I have arrived at an area which apparently has the highest rate of literacy in India and has been governed and or may continue to be governed by a communist polital party. They seem not to discourage litter, or have it collected. I cycled into the city from the airport where a couple of guys who were running a the only currency exchange shop admitted that their airport rate wasn't competative and that their other premises in town provided a better rate. They suggested heading for the museum where nearby a tourist office was located where I could collect some info/maps. As I left the airport a cafe owner hailed to indicate that he would change money so not having any, I went in and changed £20 plus some SriLankan money I had which the exchange store would not have dealt in and the sterling rate, around 68 was better than the airport rate so felt was reasonable and more could wait to find alternatives
another day. I was only able to get 33% value on the SriLanakan money even though it should be around 50%. So, armed with some cash, I ventured further into the unknown. I had been given some directions which happily was to follow a single road bearing right occasionally towards/the city about 8kms away, My goal was to find the museum where a tourist office opposite was to be found. Shortly after leaving the airport perimeter, I cycled past a beach and on rounding a corner, met a large sculptured statue in stone or quite likely concrete to look like stone, of a good figured nude lady lying down n her side leaning on her elbow in a classic pose. I'd estimate the length to be 30m at least and 5m tall at the right shoulder. Impressive but somehow out of place in an otherwise almost shanty type setting with just a few old houses about and some tiny stores. I had passed some fishing boats along the beach just before and the temp was around 25 degrees at
0900hrs. I pulled off the road at a rustic 'hotel' now knowing that its the name they give to a tea room or resturant where there are no rooms or beds to be had. I enquired as to the faire and it was chicken or beef with pancake type bread. This turned out to be chicken though I had asked for beef and along with the bread and a couple of fried Indian things, the bill came to around 45 Rupees I think. I had been told that SriLanka was mostly dearer than India but so far not the case. In SriLanka I ate mostly their local curries and a good helping of rice often with 3 or 4 vegetable curries along with fish, I could be well satisfied for at most 150 Rupees, or just over £1. A meal like this is always accompanied with a jug or glass of water which tastes best after the often spicy/hot chillied flavours. All sorts of vegetables are used, my favourates being egg plant, as well as pumpkin. Sometimes an onion salad combines to make a tremendous tranche of
tastes.
The beef I ordered turned out to be chicken and the fried lumps were added to my bill. The levened bread was ok but rice for me is preferable.
I cycled into the town and after asking the way a couple of times, came across the city library where I stopped to see some maps. No cycle parking anywhere to be seen so I leant my bike against a hedge and went in. I was immediately directed to the exit again to offload my rucksac and asked to fill in a visitor book with id number. Then upstairs to the reference section where I was shown to some ancient world atlases when the roads must have been traversed only by animal drawn carts and the place names altered several times. I suspected this source to be of little use to me and the librarian shuffled through some lealets to find a tourist map of the region. I asked her if I could have this or get a photocopy but she explained that due to it being Sunday, the sabbath, it was not permitted to copy. Desperate, I asked for a piece of paper and started to make a sketch of this map. A young fellow observing my frustration and predicament advised that I could
get a free copy of the map at the tourist office nearby. This after the librarian had pointed out an ancient looking book entitled Indian Tourist Today. Glancing at the cover, I expected it to have been published in the 50's but it was in fact 1994, only 16 years ago, but flicking through revealed no maps or pictures at all. So off I pedalled and finally found the tourist office amongst the busy hooting traffic. There a young man handed me a couple of maps and some leaflets for the Kerala region.
He directed me onto a road which led past a YMCA which he advised would cost around 1000rupees.
I decicded to head out of the city heasing east towarda the coast. On the way, I stopped for a beer in a busy bar . Kingfisher Lager seems to dominate with the strongest being around 6% and dearer than SriLankan Lion which is up to 8.8%, the latter I would most often dillute with 50% water to get 2 beers in effect. Thus fortified, I proceeded my journey over a busy and bumpy road some 20kms away. I headed directly to Kovalam beach which tirnedd out to be littered with day touriists and their discarded waste. I pushed the bike past a beach building into a palm grove and sat down to have some bread and jam which I'd bought along the way. A local map showed a harbour nearby and I cycled back up the hill to reach a main road heading south. Then onto a smaller track which had a lighthouse signposted. Following this road alongside a steep edge leading to the sea past some small houses and shanty's with occasional signs pointing to resorts in amongst the messy
village streeta. No evidence of litter colllection or bins anywhere made for a dirty untidy area. Then amongst the debris, a Mosque appears and across the fishing harbour, a Christian church stands as though competing for attention. I trundled on and typically met with an accomodation tout who assessed my budget to some extent and showed me to a concrete lump of a house where I was shown a grubby room with basic shower and loo for a min. Haggled down price of 300 Rupees, or just over £4.30 each night. The most I had paid in SriLanka Rupees had been 800 or around 400 Indian Rupees, nearly £6 until I wisened up and searched out similar places starting at 200, just over a pound.
I didn't rate the room I was being offered and always am inclined to compare at least one alternative and definitely without the tout who had his cut built into the price, I headed up the hill and came across a big Christian house, obviously so by the bible passages and references painted on the walls outside. I knocked and a middle aged Indian Lady came to the door to find me wearily leaning against my bike. Exchanging smiles, I asked about a room, while miming that it was a big house and that I hoped there was a place for me to stay tge night. Clearly not speaking any English, she beckoned me to sit on the porch and wait while she spoke with another on the phone. 5 minutes later a Gent came through the gate having arrived by Tuk Tuk and consulted with the lady briefly who handed him a note then went to leave again, only to return soon after paying his fare.
He then introduced himself as the householder and sat with me and shared a cup of tea while I was able to explain my hopes for the night. I was given a room which seemed to be used for storeing stuff and sewing. One of the two beds cleared madee ample room and there was an ensuite shower and loo. I met with their son and enjoyed a beef curry. Showering and early to sleep, but awoken at 2130 after an hour or so to enquire if I wanted to eat again. Politely declining, I returned to slumber and slept right through some heavy rain. It gad been a long haul from Colombo where I had arrived at the airport late in the evening and had not slept a wink throughout the night before.
I wandered down to the fish market in the mirning and haggled for a large pieapple for breakfast on the way back. Packed, said my thanks and farewells, I cycled up the hill again and went in search or another beach for a swim. All along the coast, are tiny houses up agaist the hill, most of which are a stonethrow from the beach. I followed a small path between a row or houses to a pathe which lead to a pleasant looking beach even though there were signs of black oil in the sand. Turns out according to one resort owner, that this is not oil at all, but naturally a mixture of black and white sand. He thought it may be caused by an abundance of mussels and other shell fish. I was shown to a basement room with ensuite and negotiated two nights for 500R which I felt reasonable. There are many fewer tourists this year and the property owners are accepting what they can to avoid otherwise empty rooms. I was two minutes walk to the beach down some steps past a
reasonable resturant where I breakfasted and swapped warm for cold beer a couple of times. Swimming was ok but waves breaking close to the steep shore. The nearby village was a steep ride up the hill about 1.5kms away where I could get a good curry with the locals served up on a large banana leaf with water from the jug. 40R gets you all the rice you can eat with a good selection of veg. Curries and sauses. Added portions of fish cost 15 or 20r more.
So after 3 days around Kovalam, it was time to head north.
I reached Varkala beach in the evening after a drenching rain which although very wet is pleasantly warm. A Tuk Tuk driver offered to show me to a reasonably priced room and I followed him at first and decided to wander off the road in the darkness towards a Hindu Temple calling its community to a gathering. Enquiries for a room were met with directions back to the main road where I was rediscovered by the taxi driver who once again beckoned me to follow another 2kms along some very dark and flooded tracks. Finally we came to the resort of Varkalla, North Cliff' with its many hotels and residences. I managed to squeeze the price to 325r a night and promptly slept. In the morning, I went to look about and had a good swim. The best swim on my trip so far. I must have been in the water riding the waves for a good while before returning to recce for alternative room/s. I found another place comparable and agreed 500r for 3 more nights. The town was around
3kms away and I was able to buy some quick drying shorts for swimming and post some goodies back home for Julie and the children. In Town, there was a good place 'Mango Drive in Resturant' to have a great veg curry for 40r. There I met the temporary town hippie Taj from Canada who has decided to travel permanently now that he has sold his nursery business so reckons at 59, he no longer needs to work but can move around the works on a constant tour. He had been in Varkala for a couple of months I think, at first renting a small house at 1200r per month. He is planning to go to Malaysia next so may bump into him again possibly. Chances are thin, but a fella I met motorcycling from Ancona Italy met in the street once and in a resturant again by chance while we were in Istanbul!
Varkala is a popular resort up against a cliff overlooking the ever warm Arabian sea. At night, Hundreds of fishing boat lights are seen several miles offshore. Good sea food can be had and although prices are higher than probably most of the locals would be prepaired to pay, I had a large Blue Marlin steak chips and salad for almost £3. If one can even get it back home or in Europe, in that setting ovelooking a moonlit sea with good music blending with the lapping waves down on the shore below, the price would surely be many many times this much.
A further 3 nights later, some photos along the beach,several swims and good meals, I was reluctant to leave but ever on with my bike tyres beginning to show rather worn tyres and gear changes now not easily had. Faith, that I would find good beaches and surf further north.
I followed a small road north following the lagoons or backwaters which the literature enthuises about promoting boat rides and overnight stays on for,er fishing boats wich have been converted to mini floating residences for folks to cruise on enjoying fresh fish meals along the way. I started to look for a room in the evening but foud none so knocked on the door of a small house on the second row back fron the beach in a dominantly fishing village. I beckoned the lady who came to thw door to follow me across her sandy front garden shared with her absent neighbour and explained that I wanted to pitch my tent on the sand for the night. she appeared to understand and agreed before returning indoors. I started to pitch in the twilight and before long many of the villagers came along to witneas this strange traveller with even stranger ativity of setting up camp with a cloth house. Before long I was surrounded by curious folk and one of which anounced
authoritavely that I could not stay since the owner of the property was away and had been informed of my presence and intentions and had forbidden my being there. I explained to this village elder who had goodish English that I had asked the lady in the adjoining house and had been given permission. It was not for her to do so and she had probably misunderstood me so I would have to move on. I accepted, though annoyed saying that I was suprised at the lack of welcome and that I would appreciate if this gentleman could please ask the lady who I had thought given me permission, if I could move my tent in front of her hoise some 5 m away. He then explained that I could stay in his garden nearby. Gratefully, I accepted his offer and he waited 10 minutes whule I packed up then accompanied him home. There he introduced me to his wife and some family who were visiting for a funeral. They invited me for dinner and breakfast in the morning. I also met some of their grown up
children, a philosophy student and a teacher of psychology.
With many thanks after a comfortable dry night in the tent, I parted to the north, but realised 12kms down the road that I had left my cycle helmet so had to add another 24kms to my journey that day in order to retrieve it. In the evening of the 6th December, I reached Alappuzha. I had a beer in a beach front resturant and got chatting to a lady from Quebec who is fluent in French and Spanish but whose English is limited but better than my French which I have not had to stutter since my high school days more than 30 years ago. But we managed in part and it was after ten in the evening when she wondered off and I started to scout about for a room. It being very dark, with those places I did find seemingly locked up for the night. There was one security gaurd who advised that the rooms were 7000 per night equivalent to my monthly accom. budget so I decided to pitch on the beach. Up early for a swim, I returned to my tent to find a gentleman waiting. He
was a jounalist from the local newspaper who had been tipped off by a friend playing football on the beach. News travels fast via mobile phones these days. Several photos and a story followed to ensure my celebrity/tramp status. I have now seen my colour photo mugshot and gobbledegook printed article running to about 400 words in the paper which I have photographed and will have translated to check what has been written.
Later I found the beachfront Mandala mini hotel which was full but they offered a patch of sand for my tent in which I slept for a further two nights, having access to a loo and shower. On the third night I took a room then moved on. Next door to Mandala there is a neater place with some freindly staff, good hammocks and better but slow arriving breakfast. I met some German, Austrian, and Portugese folk and one day we took a trip a couple of miles offshore on a local fishing boat which trawled for a good catch of prawns and a large crab which we enjoyed later.
Having moved on, I am now at Fort Kochi, an historcal port town with Portugese, Dutch, English and Jewish influences. I attended a service a St Francis, the oldest Christian church in India this morning and am staying 2 nights at the very comfotable and poshest so far Fort Garden Residency resulting from a visit to the Church yesterday afternoon at a very reasonable cost.
I will move on again at around 11am tomorrow 13/12)10 and may stay at Cherai beach on an Island , a short ferry crossing and about 15kms nearby to the north. I see that in 2 days time I will have been travelling for 3 months. I started out with £1000 in cash and have paid for all travel apart from flights, accomodation and food. I am now left with £120. My average daily spend is now just under the targeted £10 and reducing. I will need to buy some new tyres and an innertube soon but may have to widen the valve hole to accept a regular innertube fitting. My back tyre punctured for the 6th time today so hope I can get all sorted soon. All for now.
Oh, and hope that any readers are enjoying the run up to Cristmas. I know how strange it will feel being away from the my family for the first time. Here in Fort Kochi there are many christian folk and I have enjoyed hearing Christmas carols being sung including this morning a favourate of mine I first remember hearing when 7 years old which I call A Rump a Pum Pum. I'm sure you know it.

Good body surfing finally

I am in Varkala beach at present and have been here for 3 nights and have decided to stay one more day as the swimming is really good with wonderful waves. the seafood is also good although somewhat more expensive compared to the regular curry and rice that I have mostly been eating. I ate a good portion of Blue Marlin soe chips and salad and a coffee for justunder 3 pounds the night before last which I was able to cut myself.

My accomodation is a large comfotable room with ceiling fan mozzie net and ensuite loo and shower for just about 2.50 pounds per night.

I have met some western travellers here as well as some local people who seem freindly but a bit more stressed compared to many local people in SriLanka. They are less curious here with this being a faily popular tourist resort and I think life is harder for most. Litter is still a problem that folks just don't seem to be at all bothered about with little concern about all the plastic which is clogging the environment and along the beach cliffs.

Every evening when the sun lowers below the sea horizon, there a suddernly many lights visible offshore. I looks like a long town some 10 miles away but they are the fishing boat lights. I think that they are mainly static line fishing since no obvious trawling movement can be seen.

I have decided to travel north up the coast from here and then perhap at some stage head into the Western Ghat mountains when I'm feeling adventurously energetic again.

I have this morning had a trial at tghe local post offibce in order to send a small Christmas parcel back home. There is no orderly manner in which people are served so it seems the survival of the fittest prevails. One lady seemed to be doing all the work while othe staff were not too engaged and people waited a long time to get their business done.

I will copy and paste this for my blog since although I have typed several words onto my cell phone, I have yet organised a hotspot wifi zone for downloading.

All the best

S.

4th Day India

I have spent 3 nights here in India so far. First at a private house which was large so I went in and asked if they had a spare room and hey presto.

Then 2 nights near a beach where I swam in a basement room with ensuite for 3.50 pounds per night. The resort is quite an expensive one so luck to get cheap accom. They are normally busy though but this year business for them is very low so far so can haggle.

I am in the Kerala region which is south west and now heading north along the coast to Verkala beach where I hope the sea is good to swim. There were some rocks before and a steep shore so waves breaking onto the shore means no body surfing. After one or two nights I will probably head inland to some backwater areas and the mountains which rise to over 2000m. Will be much cooler. Here its a little cooler than SriLanka and not quite so humid so far. Today is overcast with fine drizzle making pleasant cool cycling.

Saw lots of fishing from boats and manually from the shore with massive net which needs some 40 men to handle and haul slowly back to the beach.

Been eating more curry with vegetable and fish with the occasional beer, which is called Kingfisher the king of good times apparently. ot as strong as some of the beer in SriLanka which I was able to add water to.

Roads here are filled with crazy drivers and am so sick of blasted horns all the time. But eventually becoming immune to them.

I believe you are having some really cold weather and that it may have been snowing in the south. Some fella from Wales said that lowest Nov. temps recorded prevailing at present so hope all is well and that you are all warm enough. Remember there is something that the children can use as a sled left over from before. Must be in the sheds somewhere.


I managed to pick up a lonely planet guide to South India so have lots of info even though about 8 years old, should be fine reference.

Bye to SriLanka

0630hrs here at the airport and I have an hour to wait for flight to India. Heading to the south west to a place called.

Trivendrem or as per my ticket the right mouthfull of Thiruvananthapuram only about 45 minutes away.

Must have a quick read about what to expect.

Finally got my Indian visa sorted and then spent a few days travelling along the coast here south of Columbo and reached just beyond Galle where I had a good swim earlier today and luckily got a lift back to the aiport in a van headed here to collect someone else arriving from England.

Been really good here and now looking ahead.

All for now and hope to catch up soon.

More Sri lanka

So here I am once again in a McDonalds, apparently one of 4 here in SriLanka which I have not yet noticed. I am in Galle rd Colombo having spent a trying night sleeping first on a station table which one fella took exception to and later on the train bench seveeal hours before it departed at 5am this morning. I needed to travel from the town of Kandy (up country) to the capital city of Colombo in order attend for the 2nd time' the Indian visa application office so that I could surrender my passport to be despatched to the High Commission here for the gold plated 3 month Indian tourist visa which I applied for earlier here in Colombo on Nov 3rd. They then required me to return no sooner than 8 days before 0900hrs and then hang about all day while the High Commissioner and his cronies hover over my passport with their magic stamp for 6 hours no doubt enjoying several banquets in between and engaging in their diplomatic doings while I along with many other
humanbeings have to endure this bureacratic bull. I'm wondering if their citizens have to experience similar torture in a tit for tat or if they are on a 'take these imperialists for a ride' to teach them a lesson for grabbing power and no doubt installing such obstacle filled procedures in the first place.

On a brighter note, my journey around SriLanka has been a joy. This really is a hickeldy pickeldy place where people seem to be happy and content to live. The roads are rather dangerous places to be especially when being passed by the govt. missile buses which stop anywhere yet appear not to stop for anything that gets in their way swerving at full pelt to overtake leaning at impossible angles while leaning constantly on their horns to announce arrival and to ward off smaller vehicles. Then there are the motorcyclists limited to 250cc with a handfull of 600s having somehow slipped through, most likely via diplomatic or politic privelage. The law for the bikers appears to require helmets mostly, or at least in urban areas, but with restriction on the number of passengers one often sees a family of 4 or even 5 clinging to an Indian 125cc of sorts. Apparently the helmet law does not extend to children or babes in arms who you will often see hanging onto the
handlebars with great delight or cradled somewhere in the middle with a pair of hands holding an umbrella aloft at the same time. I did once come across the aftermath of a two bike collision which attracted it seemed the whole villages residents and similar numbers of police at the scene. I stopped to make sure of the correct route and the policeman assumed that I was asking him what had happened as he commenced explaining that there had been an accident when I had gathered as much by the two bikes still luying where they had come to rest. I expect they were waiting for the local chief or collission experts to turn up for evidence collecting after all the townfolk had continued to cover any sign of skid marks there may have been on the sand road.

Having left Arugum bay, I headed east and soon found myself riding through a thick jungle area referred to as an elephant corridor which heightened my senses on the lookout for some Nellies I imagined would come bounding through the trees. Just then I felt the tell tale wobble sign of the punctured rear tyre. At first I tried to pump and go but soon realised the futility of this progressing only a few hundred meters at a time. So I found a place with a small stream alongside in case I needed to do a bubble search and with one eye and both ears tuned into wild animal mode, I proceeded to turn the bike over and seek out te offending hole which luckily made itself known quickly, it being a bright and quiet area. Then a tuk tuk came by with a passenger being a beer filled joung lad who insisted on offering his help and unsteady expertise. I kept thanking him and assserting that I felt sure to manage so had him and the wild animals to look out for. He was
somewhat more wild as it turned out. Puncture repaired, some sweet root shared, I continued my journey and later spotted some large black objects grazing peacefully some few hundred yards off. Binos confirmed they were indeed 5 wild elephants mildly going about their munching business without a care in the world.

In the afternoon, I came to a small village and decided to turn right onto a small track leading through some homesteads some of which typically had a store of sorts in the front garden. Then onto the local paddyfields with a spectacular hill to the left beyond a lake. Up on high I could see a temple and Budha perched on a bare rock as has often been the case. I cycled towards it and came to a farmstead where an army lad and a farm worker stood. The worker was using a couple of buckets by the well to provide a good shower which appealed so I stopped and asked if there were some monks. He was to return from the village later so I parked the bike and walked up through a forrest and well warn steps of rock up towards the monastry some several hundred yards up the hill. Birds of many, peacocks and monkeys announced my arrival to this place with view of pure tranquility amongst the drooping trees across the lake and paddy fields below. In contrast but
mingling well was the cacophony of monkeys, peacocks' squirrels and countless others from small insects to larger amphibians all contributing to this wonderfully natural atmoshere of pure harmony. And then amongst this, a well blended verandered cottage built into and against the rock. A real paradise. Busy with animals but no humans about, I proceeded beyond the permission sign on up a steep 'carved in the rock' stairway with steel cabled hand rail leading aloft to where the Budha stood and solid temple above. Stunning, so I decided to stop for the night if allowed. On the way back down I noticed a solitary figure walking along the road towards where I had left my cycle. Binos again confirmed that he most likely was the monk returning. We met at the bottom of the hill exchanging a beam of smiles, a shake of hands followed by his gift of two wood apples. I explained about wanting to stay and gestured the v shape camping sign to which he nodded and
walked on. One or two of the farm workers warned about the danger of elephants roaming around after dark. Others have at times warned me about elephants travelling along and across roads at night too, but I found a suitable camping spot near and abandoned farm hut under some trees on some sandy ground. I managed to avoid an ant highway just a few feet away and gently stepped over their path when moving around so as to avoid disturbing their follow the leader migration too and fro. Having only camped once before so far here in SriLanka, when I found the tent to be far too confined and sauna like I determined to pitch the tent differently this time. I was able to raise the flyseet well above this time, tying one side to a tree branch and using a guied branch on the other, meant that I was still sheltered from rain but able to see out either side of the inner tent through the gause with much improved airflow.
Darkness fell quickly as usual and I cycled back to the village for so,e grub, it being an onion, tomato, bread, bananas, ginger beer and ginger biscuits. Further on I sat down outside another store and asked a lady to make me a cup of tea to have with my biscuits which I shared with her little daughter and curious friend who happened along.

In the morning after having slept soundly I got up early to try and catch the sun rising from the hill above and then noticed some large droppings nearby so it looked like one or more large creatures had visited afterall. I sat on a chair in the cottage garden and was met again with a stunning view. Missing the orange ball which had been replaced by a steadily brightening through some cumulonimbus clouds accumulating on the eastern horizon. The monk then appeared and to his surprise there was I. He remarked about my not having parted the night before afterall whilst shuffling into his room to fully robe himself in my presence and reappearing enthuisiastically commenting about the beautiful sunrise. Soon after the normal mug of sweet tea arrived with a small packet of biscuits and after, I sat with him and had some chillied beans for breakfast before returning to the well below for a wash ,shave pack up and go after sharing adresses and photocall.

Onwards to the west I went at good speed, it being mostly flat to begin with. For at least 12kms, + joined a group of army cyclists out on a training ride and managed to keep with them until the next town. They were riding single geared bikes with stripped, but basic steel frames and sit up and beg bars with shopping bike tyres like my own. Given my load, I was quite pleased with my ability to keep at their pace even though I had gears to help up the increasing inclines. Glad to have reached the next town, I stopped for a drink and breakfast at a so called hotel which is the name they give a tea room here. This one specialised in Chinese cooking but I had just a simple milk rice cake made from previously cooked riced to form a sweet filled cake and a couple of bananas. On my way out, I was given a bunch of sweet mini bananas for my journey after exchanging emails and travelling tales.

In the afternoon, it was then time to turn right and start heading north into the mountains. A Toil followed with steep climbs, interspersed with an excellent curry, cup of tea and several coconuts, jack fruit and wood apple. Then the heavens opened and a soggy me walked up the last of the mountain pass, passed a wild waterfall and eventually onto the mountain village of Ella 1100m aloft in the heart of Cylon tea country. Evening meal a boring relatively expensive burger for supper joined by Crystal I think, a joung lady fro Denmark who is a fashion designer having recently completed a SriLankan contract arranged via a well known London design school where she had degree'd. Overnight in the monastry, an early walk to little adams peak offered a memorable view across the tea plantations down to the east across a natural mountain corridor to the hills and plains far below.

Quick breakfast and time to hop on the 160km, 7hr! train journey through the mountains back to Kandy and the Burmese Rest where I stayed once again for the princely sum of about £1.10 per night.

I would not ordinarily choose to travel on a lumpy bumpy, noisy, slow, stop starting train journey, but this one was special....
Scenery special. Explosion of vegetation, colours from trumpets blue, scarlet, orange, yellow and cotton. Wild water tumbling headlong over crests and steep gorges lifting mist and spray. Great forrests of Eucalyptus and Pine, ferrocious ferns, fruit full. Family and market gardens of abundant variety and tea mountains afar. People busy, children waving, cows grazing. Mountain villages, bustling towns, bikes ,buses and all between. Birds and bees, dogs and monkeys. Will this noisy bumpy jouney ever end. Though a wonderful experience I well recommend.
All for now.

Tropical bliss with mozzies

Fri 19th Nov. I notice that the last note typed on my cell phone is dated 31 Oct. I am listening to the regular beat of waves tumbling onto a short, steep shoreline which is where the beach hut I have slept in over the last two nights. Here at Arugam bay I have reached the most southern point along the east coast before a national wildlfe park which some have said that I can cycle through and others not. Suspect latter is correct and if other tourist attractions are to be judged by, then entering the park by 4x4 guided is likely to be very expensive. Just met a couple of joung French fellows who are working for a children's charity assessing the results of support work ongoing following the tsunami some 6 years ago. One is to travel to JHB soon and then on to Kwazulu Natal. Although it is 6 years ago, many people talk about it and I saw, especially further north at Passikuda, much evidence of buildings that once stood before what must have been a
devastating experience for many. So this, my 19th day out of 30 allowed, there is still much I hope to see including hopefully some wild elephants and the moutain areas south of Kandy some of which is called little England being cooler up high and no doubt rains a lot too.
The joung French lads commented about India being really noisy and dirty, I am just hoping to find some quiter more peaceful places which I will be on the lookout for.
People here are really freindly and genuinely interested as well as very curious. My diet has been filled with lots of curry, mainly vegetable and fish with many good fruits to enjoy abundantly. Drinking King coconuts has been a favourate as well as enjoying the local Lion Lager one of which is very strong at 8.8% which is fine dillutwd with water at 50% making two normal for the price of one.
There is lots of fishing going on here and many of their fibreglass boats have been donated by charties but it seems that there are twice as many boats as needed, the results of good intentions wasted. There are also some traditional canoe types with single timber floats on one side which provide stability and are propelled with oars. The fish are landed and the local townfolk gather around to establish the highest price to be offered by auction. The fisherman or his rep will shout what sounds like Anurupar over and over which I think may mean asking price starts at 100 rupees per kilo and open to better offers. I watched this going on for a good few minutes during which time none of the 10 or so punters offered any sign of acceptance. I suppose its a waiting game and all are reluctant to start the bidding for fear of driving tge price too high.

On the way here fron the north, I pulled of the main road to rest and have a bite to eat of some fruit and ledt over bread fron breakfast I had had earlier. I came across a buiding on the beach signed as the fisherman's rest, which I passed and settled under some coconut palms nearby. Soon after a wiry fisherman approached and asked me if I wanted coconuts. I think he may have seen me peering on the ground at some fallen ones which unfortunately had been spent. Ever eager must have been my expression so he hoisted up his frock and climbed effortlessly up a seemingly impossible 90 degrees using his arms and legs to carry him all the way up in no time. I gather people here, often employ such characters to harvest their own garden trees. The price of these fine fruits has varied between 10 and 40 rupees, or 6p and 24p in English money and provide an excellent thurst quenching' energising drink followed by a pleasant eating of sweet jelly. Beats a soda
drink anyday and most contain at least 500ml.
I have stayed just once in my tent so far. Most I have paid gas been 800 and have often paid around 500 or 3 pounds. The showers are all cold but its that warm anyway, there is no need for hot water. Mostly I am able to eat well in small resturants for around 90p, that being a generous plate of local rice and a good curry with veg and fish or chicken. Beef has also been more common in the eastern Tamal areas.
I have met many local people being Budhists mostly, Tamals both Hindu and Muslims and some Chritian folk too. There is much more to write about but thumbs are tired and I must start packing for onward journey inland to the west at noon today. I have had very hot sunny weather for the last week or more and today it is overcast and cooler so hopefully easier on the bike.
Till next time.

Sri Lanka

Its already halfway through a max month long stay here in SriLanka and I have that time fly's feeling.

I have last night stayed in a manse beloging to The Grace Redempton Fellowship. Kethees the paster has allowed me to camp down on his living room floor with a cooling ceiling fan providing comfort from the otherwise prevailing humidity which I have happily grown used to.

Mozzies though are a continuous challenge in the early evenings especially and those in SA always loved the taste of my blood and the same has prevailed here so a mix of nets, fans, covering up, some peaceful sleep insect repellent which I think my mum gave me several years back and a coil have formed my not so succesful defence.

My journey so far has taken me east from the airport (had intended traveeling north) on the Kndy road where I stopped soon after the day I arrived and met with a recently married couple and their parents. The father runs a small roadside store and Istayed with them for 3 nights, visting a local village by bus and another multi bus journey from there oneday to visit the Indian Visa Office in Columbo the capital. I will have to return there againgn to have my passport visa stamp. Not looking forward to that as they require one to arrive before 0900hrs and return later in the day after 1630hrs to collect passport. All this following 8 days to process the visa application costing over 40 pounds for a single 3 month tourist visa.

From discussion I have had with local folks here, it may be that I will limit my touring in India to the south of the country beginning in Madras which is the nearest airport destination from here. I feel that the time I have been spending here has perhaps given me a soft introduction to what is to follow.

I have found the people here to be very friendly and helpful, a smaller number inclined to see me as a cash cow on occasions.
and invariably then dissapointed with my knowledge of what prices should be.

The food here has been really great, rice and curry being the norm with extraordinary spicy and sometimes very hot but delicious tastes. Lots of exotic fruit and vegetables with abundance of fish often very small but full of taste. Around the towns, the streets are often very dirty without any evidence of attempts to control the accumulating litter. Off the main tracks though, the environment is very natural with explosions of vegetation and birdlife, rivers and lakes full of fish supporting the local needs. At the beach yesterday I attended the local fish market following the overnight catch. At 150 rupees per kilo of small but popular fish being about 85 English pence I thing.

For 150 rupees, one can eat a generous plate of rice with at lest one meat or fish and 3 sometimes for different vegetable curries always served with a glass of water which can be refilled at will. I have so far continued to drink the ground water without problem.

Travelling after sunset in some places is reckoned to be hazardous sometimes as apparently the wild elephant population is inclined to travel across or along the roads. So far though, I have not seen any and only one elephant which was standing in a shelter, tethered near an elephant orphanage which I bypassed. I have cycled about 600kms so far and will probably do that much again by bike with possible additional bus and train journeys to cover more ground before I need to leave in 2 more weeks unless my visa is extended which is unlikley.

I stayed at Kandy, the islands 2nd town for 3 days and for two nights on the east coast which is the area I am now in. The tsunami which happened over 6 years ago now is still very visbly evident and on the minds of the local people.

I will travel further south today and then perheps turn inland once again to the hilly/moutainous areas, one of which is called little England, being higher altitude is rather cooler and has many tea plantations from former times. Well, I must get going again as the pastor has kindly let me use his computer and needs to get on with his own work. Hope to provide more detail on the diary again soon. Bye for now.

Indian Wrestling

Its Saturday evening 30th of Sept. On Turkish airways flight to Bahrain. Beginning to think it was a crazy choice but it has meant heading south west ffrom Istanbul towards the east and away from the creeping cold european weather. An Irish lady whose husband is a pilot in Bahrain commented that cycling there was not the done thing and that most people rent a car and that the Island is rather small and can be seen in a few days. No trains or many buses apparently so we'll have to see. I spent this morning searching fro flight options having decided to skip Iran and Pakistan. One option was to fly to Bangladesh via Dubai but the cost had increased by the time I reached the airport so I decided to check out other options by studying the destination board. Getting the bike on the plane (hope its on) was a nightmare where first they insisted on it being wrapped in cellophane. I argued some sense though suggesting that if the wheels were left free, it would
make it easier to load. Then they insisted that I remove the tent, sleeping mat and front paniers which I then had to tie together with some rope and hope. The flight takes 3.5 hours and I am advised that I can get an entry visa on arrival but have no idea of the cost. I'm pretty knackered though feel ready ready for any road traffic challenge after the successful but hairy ride to Istanbul airport from the city centre.
Now Sunday 31st evening at 2030hrs and in a short whille I will be boarding a flight to Colombo Banladesh. I had a rather dissapointing day at the Indian Embassy. What I perceive to be an opportunity to make potential visitors welcome, turned out to be quite the opposite with conflicting information given by their officials and a potential 4 day wait while they hold on to your passport and expect you to provide an address eg. hotel who would no doubt request to see ones passport. This, after they have sent you across the road to obtain one copy of your passport for their admin purposes. I had two good quality black and white photos which their first official accepted and stapled carelessly onto the application. Then waited in queue for an hour to be told about needing an address for reasons I do not understand and the holed photos rejected. Swcond lady also then told me that I would need to sort this lot out by 12 noon when all application would have to
wait until tge next day. Then she said tgere would be a 4 day wait in any case. I felt very put off and went to express my being upset and discouraged from travelling to India afterall when for many years I had looked forward to doing so. + spoke with the consul deputy who tried to establish how they may help with my circumstances. I explained about having intended travelling ASAP and budget restricted so hotel accommodation not being affordable at around 50 pounds per night minimum. Another lady, the consuls assistant then said that it may be possible to do it quicker, by perhaps the next day but depended on London Office confirmation so could not be sure.
I had explained about my not having arranged visas from London because of being on an unpredictably long cycle journey and the deputy seemed to think that was not suitable and unless I was associated and or sponsored by a recognised organisation, their was nothing he could do so like Poncious Pilot, he washed his hands of the affair and left me wondering what motivation caused him to take that view. I gave up feeling very dejected and thought how others must have experienced the same prevention system. I left and returned some minutess later to write the Consul General a letter about my experience and difficulty there. I will publish this letter on the website at a later date and trust that I will receive a reply and some consideration to my observations.

Oh well, if at second you don't succeed try....
So I am off to Bangladesh where I am informed they are willing to issue a visa on arrival and hope that a third attempt at visiting an Indian Consulate to apply for a visa outside my home country will be a more positive experience. Else, a visit to India may never have been on the cards afterall. Again, we'll have to wait and see.

By the way, Bahrain is an indoor place unless you are an early morning walker, or a park worker.

Many very impatient drivers who do not appreciate that cyclists cannot simply dissapear out of their way. Petrol is 20p a litre. large villas are built on reclaimed land and shell fisherman fly around at great speed in motorboats. I understand that pearls are dived for here but I have not seen much really while trying to keep clear of manic drivers, coverless road drains, unhelpful vias officials and hot humid dusty air. The aiport staff here though are very freindly and far more accomodative towards crazy cyclist travellers, pleasantly human. So much more so than the automaton robot like the Turkish Airline check in staff at Istanbul.

Gota go

2nd Day Istanbul

People People and more People

Stıll ın Istanbul where there ıs a natıonal holıday today so all consulates closed untıl Monday.

Weather stıll horrendous though a lıttle dryer today. Only have accommodatıon for thıs evenıng agaın so must get goıng somehow tomorrow.

Have got ferry across to Asıan sıde of Istanbul today for traın enquırıes and so may begın journey towards Ankara where there are more embassıes.

Even though ıts a holıday here wıth many busınesses closed the place ıs stıll hummıng. 15 mıllıon ısh people apparently and quıte expensıve. Seems ıts as much to eat out as ıts to buy food ın markets or shops.

Have been lıvıng on kebabs and drıed fruıt. Also had an egg and cheese roll wıth salad thıs mornıng whıch was good. Beer very expensıve.

Istanbbul one crazy place

So here I am feeling fraudulent again floating at 90kms/h towards Istanbul some 160kms away. Its 1055hrs and as I was getting ready fir some more rain, a coach pulled over to let a passenger embark. I felt my left arm and thumb automatically extend and happily the driver stopped for me and the bike which slid effortlessly into a luggage bay. The coach is only a third full and will take me all the way to the city. Its pouring out so glad to be warm and dry. The bill though seems high at 15 Turkish Lira. I was able to giive him 5 euros and 5Tl, as I only have 10Tl left and must try to change for some again soon.
I camped last night in a garden surrounded by meteorological instruments. I had noticed this place on my town hunt for accomodation. I found two hotels and one wanted 35Tl or about 18 euros and another I managed to Haggle down to 20 Tl but the stark room offered on the top 4th floor with dodgy winding staircase put me off so I decided to scout about for a spot to camp. I had earlier passed a park with some community buildings and took a turn in there where I asked a group of 4 teenagers what the place was and if I could camp. No No they replied and with pidgeon English managed to explain that the place was frequented by unsociable drinking types and would be dangerous. They invited me to their 'School House' which turned out to be their school and the teachers who had less English than they, appeared somewhat suprised at whom their pupils had brought. An enquiry was made and reply that a hotel would be 35Tl. Thanking them for their help, I sauntered off
and made my way back to the weather station which is located about 100m from the main rd and therfore a little noisy but good soft lawn. I found the offices locked up, but saw a young boy peering through the window of an adjacent bungalow, I walked around the house and was met by a joung man who resided there. I beckoned him to come with me so I could mime the action of camping, whilst showing him my touring gear loaded on the bike. A quick phone call followed an agreement and he showed me to an area next to the weather station's office building, where I happily pitched my tent. He and his son came over to say hello a little later and I asked him if there was water available from the hose I had seen on the lawn. He managed some English and explained that there was no water to be had outside but asked his son to go and collect something. Keys for the office followed by a new 20 litre bottle of water.

A little while later, I took a walk up the hill into town and bought some olives, some red wine and a small packet of fruit gums for the little boy as a way of thanking him for letting me camp in his garden. On the way back to my tent, I noticed how quiet and peaceful the dangerous park appeared and thought how much quieter camping there may have been. Good thing though was I'd got permission and my tent and things were surely more secure as a result. Though I remember reading about Turkish culture ealier in the year when we holidayed as a family for a week back in August. Apparently thieves are considered the lowest of the low here in Turkey and stealing can be viewed more serious than a murder resulting from a partner's unfaithful actions for example. All about honour I understand. The Turkish people seem to be very nationalistic as there are flags all over. Its as if they are making sure that people know where they are all the time.
The terrain has been one of rolling hills aalong a straight busy two lane national road leading due east to Istanbul with occasional towns with not too pleasant multiple high rise appartment buidings abundant. I pulled of the road and visited a smaller farming community village yesterday which was more attractive to me even though the picnic area leading to the villlage was typically littered which I find unpleasant. They may have national pride with flags but do not seem to deal with litter in the same way. Not unlike many places I have travelled through and unfortunately laike back home in England I have to concede.
A quick visit to their village store with accompanying curiosity about one strange traveller on biciclette, produced a litre of fruit juice which I despatched gratefully. I didn't manage much mileage yesterday as my legs were feeling rather lazy battleing with the hills and head wind. You'd think I'd learn, but I still often manage to start off a bit too hastily rather than gently warming up to peak performance and then find I've strained my muscles a bit causing prolonged discomfort.

My first evening in Turkey you may remember, only night before last was spent at an hotel. Cheap at 15Tl, meant I could happily go for an evening wonder about the town. Unfortunately it was raining and I didn't get far. I was immediately distracted by a cake and cookie shop where I undulged in some very sweet pastries, also tasting a very creamy drink. All at 3 Tl, a bargain. Then I wondered into an cafe' and ordered some rice and meatballs with a youghurt type drink which is popular. Well, the rice arrived on a seperate dish with chick peas. So I had 4 plates altogether, Rice, meatballs, some very hot chillis and several slices of fresh bread. Perhaps I really looked hungry! Well I managed some of the bread but had to leave some and felt that they must have thought my eyes were too big for my tummy. The bill came to 10Tl so will try to avoid making the same mistake again next time.

The following morning, yesterday, I walked around the town looking for a bicycle shop. I was directed to a motorcyle/scooter spares shop which stocked some bicycle stuff but neither by tyres, nor my innertubes. I may have to widen the innertube valve hole to accept larger diameter valves as those types are more readily available.

This town Ipsala clearly caters for the surrounding farming community with many small tractor repair, spares and servicing business. The town gun shop has pistols, shot guns and two .22 air rifles at reasonable prices.
I also found out that a popular 2 stroke 70km/h pedalled moped can be purchased new at about €500.

I just caught a glimpse of the sea to the right so Istanbul ever nearer. 1220hrs still drizzling.

Once I have established a place to stay, I will try and find a helpful travel agent for some advice on onward travel. Maybe I can bypass Iran and Pakistan and head directly for India. Either way, I will have to sort oit visa's for all, India as well. I have a desire to see Iran and Pakistan but many folk have opinioned that travel there may be insecure. Others have said fine though with certain areas and travel after dark to be avoided. Back in Brighton, I met a retired Iranian doctor who enthuised about travelling through but also remarked that some areas were less secure. Like anywhere else really! As ever, time and budget will be important factors. India looms large so expect it to be a monster crossing. With Turkey and Iran also being big, I will most likely spend some days in Istanbul deciding next move. The resturant manager at the hotel where we stayed in the summer had following to say about Istanbul. Many joung men, unemployed with nothing to
do but scratch for a living in some way. Not a formula for peaceful, lawful and secure society he opinioned. Again, like many other places. Rain now pelting down. Should have asked the weather fella what to expect over the coming days. I'm looking forward to visiting Istanbul. Although I generally prefer villages to cities, this is one city that appeals as the gateway to Asia. Hopefully I can avoid the regular earthquakes and enjoy the city atmosophere and culture.
Have arrived and very wet, need to wonder around and continue to look for a place to stay but its 10pm already so could be a long night.

All for now,

S.

First night in Turkey

It was an easy ride Hillwise to Turkey from Alexandrapoli. Estimate around 70km and mostly flat with smooth final 10kms.

Getting through the border was an issue though with no fewer than 4 posts requiring to see one's passport at Turkey end. Also had to buy a visa at £10 or €15 so used £s, it being the second visa purchased for Turkey this year.

About 1 and 3 kms from the border there are a couple of hotels along the main road and I enquired at the 2nd one to be told that the asking price was €20 because there is demand from students this time of the year. A chap at the border said I could pay 10 Lira or
about €5.

However, if you turn left at traffic lights and go into Ipsala town, there is the Sebat Hotel where I have a basic room with two beds for 15 Lira which is fine. Again wifi is available and a hot shower. One needs to ask for a towel.

When I arrived at the hotel it was already dark at around 7pm. This morning, whilst I was up and decamped quite early, I rode back into town and found the hotel with wifi so did not get away again till after 12 then stopped for another coffee and sausage roll before I really got going around 1pm.

Touching wood, I have travelled without puntures all the way from Barcellona, but this afternoon I picked up one in each wheel. Passing a coachat the roadside, I noticed the passengers returning from a sand track and curiosity got the better of me so I stopped to see what the attraction was. There is an ancient Roman road which crossed to Turkey and over what is now Macedonia where I have been through. This road details of which to follow dates back to before Christ and was apparently the first Roman road to have been built beyond Rome or Italy at the time.

All very interesting but must also be a thorny track by now, two punctures later. I managed to find the rear one but could not the front, so had to remove the wheel and tube and dip into water.

I have been mostly cheesed off with the constant rubbish and debris along the roads fron careless passing motorists/litterbugs. However I did find a large plastic bottle with lid which I was able to convert into a tube dipping bath in a puddle I found off the main road. Puncture located and repaired I moved on but still have a slow leak in the front tyre which I will need to sort out in the morning. All that messing about, delayed me by about an hour and more so must try and get a good distance tomorrow hopefully.
All for now,
S.

been lucky with

Slipping through Greece

It was rather a long walk to the station as route taken was a bit indirect after several directions offered. Most younger people tend to speak or understand some English. The lady at the station joked at first saying she had no English and I had decided to head for a town or village around 50km inside of Macedonia so needed to be guided as my map has inadequate detail. Her English turned out to be very good happily and she suggested a village called Demir Kapi''oa which is where I am right now (0900hrs Sat 23rd Oct) enjoying a good cheese omlette. That together with a mug of coffee which I was able to make for myself in the kitchen. I can't be doing with this strong Turkish coffee served in tiny cups when I just want a decent hot drink. I had a reasonable kip last night but wa woken by the customers down stairs who really got going at 4am with their singing to several recorded songs, the words of which they obviously knew the off pat. Not at all
unpleasant with several good voices and melodies drifting my way, I imagine the place was filled with just men in a smoky jovial atmosphere which has been the norm in cafe's and bars in the smaller Balkan towns and villages I have travelled through. I lay listening for a while and felt I would have liked to join in but I would have only been able to Laa Laa along and it will have required a lot drinking to catch up with that lot so I just read my book and drifted off again later.

So here I am, having decided to be lazy once again with being carried over self propulsion. No contest really as the train trip was 2.5 hours (scheduled 2) and covered about 120kms I think. The cost was about €2.50 and probably cut my journey time by a couple of days, boosting my budget a little which has been stretched by having avoided the tent for at least 10 days now. Still, at €6 for bed and breakfast last night, its not bad.

I remaked to a fella sat opposite me in the cramped train last night that travelling by train here is hard work and he remarked that it could perhaps be likened to India. I suspect Indian train travel to be much worse though and he conceded that he had not ravelled on an Indian train before. Many people were standing for well over an hour covering just 50km with ten stops along the way. Then most people alighted so must be the regular daily journey for those living in a fair size town commuting to Skopje. I had also to struggle at Skopje station with several flights of long stairs to reach the platform and then to squeeze along a carriage with the bike only just passing between the chairs and one or two grumpy/sleepy travellers.
I was glad to have been able to speak with the driver who kept me informed as to where we were since for me (and even the regular travellers who I'd noticed pearing intently into the darkness for familiar landmarks) it was really impossible to know where we were or when I was to arrive. ETA time had been dodgy guide due to undetermined delay.
I see there is a blue sky once more so looking forward to a good sunshine ride today. Should make the border and beyond perhaps. Greece here I come! Then tenth country in just over 6 weeks!
So here I am (Sunday 24th October at 19rmhrs) well into Greece and on a train heading east from Seres to Alexandropoli which is not far from the southern border of Greece and Turkey. I reached the Greek border from Macedonia yesterday at around 1600hrs and was glad to have done a little food shopping to spend the last of he Macedonian currency since prices are a while lot dearer in Greedy Greece. Vasileia a young lady I am sat next to remarked that since the recent credit crisis, prices are up markedly most likely due to additional taxes etc. I noticed the price of fuel to be about 50% dearer than in the Balkans and she tells me that a beer in a bar at Thessoliki can be around 7 euros now. I have paid 2 euros ealier today which is doule what I have been recently used to.

I had considered staying one more night in Macedonia but had run out of currency so crossed into Greece and was then quoted €30 for a hotel room when I had paid €5 the night before at Demir Kapioa.

The journey from their had been a steady climb at times but then the view of a large lake which I coasted towards and bypassed on my way to the border town which shares its name with the town Dojran opposite on the Greek side. Crossing the border one passes through a kind of no mans land with high fences and a sign welcoming you to Greece. Alongside there are premises belonging to a Greek Orthodox church also behind high barbed wire fences behind which a couple of vicious guard dogs make sure you keep at bay. Not very welcoming after all.
I then headed east towards Podopoli but as it started to get dark I entered a little village to find very few people who could understand English. I approached at least half a dozen and all gestured that I should continue to a hotel some 5kms further on. I had already been quoted €30 but thought I may haggle a bit so trundled on in the twilight. I came to another village and was directed over the railway line where I saw a banner advertising the hotel but when I eventually found it, it was closed. Having already identified a school football field earlier, I headed back and pitched in the dark under a full moon and a chilly prospect ahead. It was the first time I'd camped in about ten days and remember thinking I'd been getting a bit spoilt and soft. Had a good, plenty warm enough sleep though and was packed and away this morning by 0900hrs. Once I had pitched last night, I wondered on foot into the village and found a cafe for a beer and hot dog at
€3.50.
This morning I called in at the same cafe for a mug of coffee and a couple of boiled eggs at €2.

So my journey today to Seres was quite long but mostly level and I had a couple of beers along the way, one of which some friendly locals who had just won their football match paid for.

25th Oct 0945hrs. My reply to Fred who has been in touch.
Hi Fred,

Hope your knees are ok, I remember the roads were rather challenging after Dubrovnik, especially crossing eastward across Albania and the weather was dismal.

Better now however, I am in Alexandranapoli Greece which is not far from Turkish border. Last night was 2nd night in Greece and probably last as I make for Turkey today. I got used to the good Balkan value and have been shocked at the prices in Greece. Had a good 100km slog yesterday to Serres and tgen got on the train. Camped wild both nights so far and saved €70 doing so.

Sorry to hear about your stove, again, I have been spoiled eating at cafe's and resturants before arriving at Greece. I am now sat alone in the breakfast room of Hotel Hera where the nice lady has given me a pot of coffee, 3 pieces of cake/and a croissant with jam for €2. A bargain with Wifi thrown in. Access code 1234567890123. If you come this way, got to be recommended at least for breakfast but they quoted me €45 for a room last night.
Catch you later Fred, take care.

All for now, gobble gobble Turkey is about 40ish kms away and looking forward now.
S.

Arrived in Macedonia

Just had good nights sleep at The Flip Hostel in Skopje Macedonia.
The Hostel is near the Bizantine castle and also nearby Rubin Karmin which was an old communistic period jwellery factory. The Hostel is run my Ardian a theatre event manager who has very good English. At 10 euros for a room on my own but holding 4 potentially is apparently reasonable. I have been offered wid tea and bread with homemade jam and a tasty pepper sause.
A young stage and TV actress by the name Filis showed me to the hostel and for all those single fellas following in my wake, she is very pretty an Single too.
The journey from Prizren in Kosovo to Skopje is an easy mostly downhill, especially from the border, journey of around 55kms.

Skopje from what I have seen so far really swings with a busy social night life with many bars returants and cafe's. I went to eat at a cafe' near to the jazz club and had Tauc'e Shopska and Rakisa I think. Good salad, a bean stew, bread and a strong aperatif 50%.
I then listened to a good band which did a track on a well known Shepherd who back in 2000 ish lost his sheep in a bombing raid or some fighting, but subsequently was compensated by an unusually large amount of money suspected of being a scam/money laundering.

This morning I will trundle off down to the railway station and see about trains towards Greece or other and where the weather had been an excuse, no longer, as I see a blue sky outside, but we'll see.
Speed and budget issues will help to decide.
Bye for now.
S.

Blasted rain but Macedonia some 50kms away

I am in Ferizay near to Urosevac some 55 ish kms from Skopje in Macedonia.

Good nights sleep in what is quite a busy town with many small cafe's and resturants offering what looks like good at very reasonable prices compared to West.

Staying at Motel Valdrini or Valdrivi in large comfortable suite with global tv and balcony for 15 euros haggled down from 20.

I found a market stall on my way yesterday selling cycle bits. I bought

2 brake blocks
8 patches and glue
Inner and outer brake cable
New but annoying right hand mounted Dynamo

All above for 7 euros. Back home, the dynamo would have more than this alone! Crazy world!

Roads here are busy ,narrow and lumpy so dangerous for cycling. I managed to get two lifts yesterday. One, about 10kms from Nissan 4x4 causing occupants to share back seat with cycle front end. I was rather embarrassed with there effort and generosity despite my pleading for them not to worry when it was found the bike would not fit easily and I was to be the 5th passenger. Then I called at resturant where they had dropped me off and anaged to get a lift (Approx 30kms) with a Merc lorry which had a hoist and was empty so no probs.

So arrived in the town at about 1700hrs,

Woken up this morning to yet more rain so have to just get on with getting wet.

Carry on Kosovo

I arrived in Kosovo the day before yesterday and managed soon after to find digs in an unfinished motel which the buider/owner let me stay for €8, which I was happy with since soon earlier I had been qouted €40. Not a good night sleep though as there is 24hr road building going on behind the property and a rock breaking bulldozer was hammering away all night.
The suburbs in Kosovo immediately differed from Albania revealing more established and less run down environment.

I set of for Prizren At about 9am on another overcast drizzly day. The roads being very wet and muddy meant having to put up with splattery spray from all the passing traffic. At least my route through Albania the roads while very steep
were quite from traffic. From the border the road climbs gently towards Prizren some 15kms away and even though grimey, some flat sections were a real treat for a change.
On the way in to town, I noticed several market stalls on the left and I stopped for a snoop. Then entered a covered market which is quite large with many traders offering just about anything one can carry away.
I found a small shortwave radio which hopefully could allow me to tune into the bbc world service now and then.
One enters the town on a one way system and I had another hunt around for a bike store as my spd shoes are now about to perrish and to see if I could spot other similar radios.
Neither were found but I di remembe passing by a small bicycle repairer that may be wortg a visit for some bits before moving on. Later I tried to make my way back to the covered market but at first could not find the same road I had entered on. This oneway system here is frustrating as it takes one a long way round the town. I decided then to enquire about wifi and was direted to a bar by the bane of Barcode not obviously named other that labels on steel drums outside. It is near to an old bridge across the river towards the top of the town where the oneway system bares left. Had a beer and checked emails. So round I went again and happily found it the right road once more.

I decided to try and barter the windup radio which I had bought Back in England since it only has AM and FM but a handy light which I can do without. So whilst demonstrating my more expensive bargain of a swap, Adem was called over as someone with a little English. He helped me get the message across yhen decided to buy my radio for the same price of the one I wanted. Deal done. Adem then invited meto his clothing store for some coffee which arrived later after a good chat. The coffee was excellent and somehow came topped with cream and sprinkled coffee decorated in the shape of a spiders web. I asked Adem if he could write his name and perhaps an email address into my diary for the day. He is ot a computer user though and wrote hs address instead, the offered to have me for guest overnight. Well here I am still in bed having met with his wife and daughter, feasted, clothes washed, then later in a quite typically smoke filled bar,introduced to some of
his Albanian mates, including a deputy minister for health and social development. I did mention the irony and explained about the smoke free public buildings back home and that perhaps he should promote the same to which the interpreted reply was too many problems caused.
Inevitably, I have been offered my room for another night but must gratefully move on. It has been recommended to travel through Macedonia, then on to Greece rather than the more direct route through Bulgaria. As there are likely to be more burglars in Bulgaria. Always intended to travel through Greece anyway, but am glad to have diverted across to the Balkans instead of travelling the length of Italy.

Puke' Albania

Just a quick note.

1100hrs Sun 17th Oct.
Spent last night in only hotel here in Puke' Albania after a mammoth ride thru thhe mountains, rain, darkness, lightening, mist and poiice eacort.

Slept well, clothes tumble dried, breakfasted on half a scrawny but likely free range chicken and fresh bread roll with liptons ice tea.

On way now to Kuke's towards Kosovo. Hope it flattens a bit and the weather turns kinder.

All for now,

S.

All are wheeking and dealing here in Albania

Albania. Arrived earlier this afternoon at the border which suddenly appears through the sticks. I had been travelling in rhe hills most of the afternoon with the occasional village dotted about. There was a queue of around 10 cars so I hopped forward abreast of the passport office and lead car. Obviously some commotion in progress as it seemed as though one or more of the passengers documents were not in order. Much debating and remonstrating prevailed when finally I had my mugshot transferred to their computer via a scanner' then some manual input and I was through.

You are immediately presented with a couple of banking billboards and somme kiosks promoting I don,t know what. Then riding through a rural area with farmstead either sid of the road with curious and friendly folk especially the children keen to greet.

A small town followed which is a jumble of houses from of all sizes. Lots of stalls sellling consumables. A bridge followed over a litter strewn river and a shanty settlement revealing stark poverty. All afternoon I had enjoyed a quieter road through the countryside on the way to ..... which I had thought was to be a sizeable town but turned out to be a hamlet really. One disturbing sight had been the obvious lack of concern about litter which is often an eye sore which much fly tipping evident. Then when I was into Albania at first the area appeared cleaner untill I reached the first settlement of size an in particullar, the river I crossed was ver dissapointing. There appear to be no garbage services for these people who live alongside their own squalor.

There is clearly a massive visible gap here in Albania between those that have wealth and not.

I carried on after enquiring about a room and have reached a large town alonside a river with an unbelievable bridge leading across. It can only take traffic in one direction at a time and is laid with timber planks, many of which are warn, rotting and bowed. The river is wide at least 100m or more. I had at first been directed towards a modern Hotel on the east side ie before crossing, built up on a hill behing a church. Approaching along a small road with washed clothing hanging on fences and small shacks up against the hill with litter everywhere. They showed me to a room but was beyond my budget now set at 10 euros. I looked about a bit and have found a small resturant/motel which has a basic room with light and typically a tele that does not work. I will try to get a coffee in compensation in the morning. Have been of to do some grub shopping after changing 10 euros for some local currency. Could not find any larger stores but found one for
sardines, bread rolls, fruit juice, cheese and a/couple of beers.

Weather through Monte.. Has been quite wet and today no exception. Impressions overall are of stunning scenery mostly friendly folk, street wise dogs never seen on leads or accompanied by their owners. Most annoying for a cyclist though has been the constant hooting from motorists often as they are passing. They also hhot at each other a gret deal. I reckon you could cause a national deptession if all their hooters were removed. I have seen very few cyclists about in Montenegro and a large number of motorists who seem to think that hooting at cyclists helps in some way. Very annoying, often frightening and inclined to encourage swearing. If only thet knew how unnecessary and upsetting it is. One or two lorries appeared to be darnright dangerous with their hooting and passing by dangerously and needlessly to close. Another noticable fact is that if you have ever stopped to wonder what happens to all the old VW golfs in the world, well theu never die,
but find themselves all driving about Montenegro. someone told me the population here is around 650000 but there seems tii be as many vw golfs.

Before leaving Petrovas na Moru where I stayed last night, I stopped at a roadside cafe to shelter from some driving rain and to adjust my brakes. I'll offer a good reward for anyone who can encourage a smile from the blonde lady who runs the place. Its on the right before you reach tge main road, I have rarely met such a sullen individual. Oh well, a cup of luke warm tea and a boiled egg later I reluctantly parted with
1.60 euros before continuing.

A lot of climbing followed today with regular bouts of rain. I reached a town and stopped for a very good value hamburger at 1.30 and at least equivalent to 5 Mac d's burgers back in rip off Britain.

Then as one heads out of town, there is a sign for Sukobin and the small road doubles back very steeply. This rd leads up into the hills inland winding its way through small settlements with lots of mountain streams and gardens full of citrus fruits.
Got going this morning Sat 16th at about 0900hrs, rained all night and persisted. Got small glimpse of sunshine just before entering hotel europa, ontrastingly posh compared to the chaotic but slow moving shambles outside. Saw a very sad looking horse earlier just standing in the road in a daze. Nobody seemed to rake any notice of it whilst just passing around. Quite a lot of cyclists in the city with helmetless moped riders, one carrying a lady who adopted side saddle, it being more ladylike/dignant I suppose. Few people can speak English here with most having Italian as an alternative. Lots of little DIY businesses and driving school cars mostly very old large Mercedes or Audi.
I will now head towards Puke' in the direction of Kosovo.
All for now, its nearly 1200hrs and + must get going.

2nd day in Monte...

First impression of Montenegro was rustic. I noticed rather more older vehicles and it appeared even less populated. As you descend from the border and reach sea level, there is a little store named after a lady. There were a number of businesses I had noticed during the day connected with ladies names for example Kate's Camping and others. Seems like the ladies around here are the entrepreneurs. Then there is a sign on the right just before some football fields advertising rooms. I called in and found a room offered at €10. Back in Euros now after spending all the Kuna I had bar 25 which I managed to swap for 3 euros at the border from a fella heading into Croatia.

I went to get some grub from quite a large SM about 2kms further on the lhs. Later returned and asked cheekilly if she would take 8 euros which she did. Then was happy to cook up some pasta for me to which I added some fish, tomato and onion.
There was an Albanian couple in the next room who took of at 0430 next morning and then the rooster had a good session so eventually managed to get back to sleep for a bit. Got away at 0900 and found 3 oranges left for me by the bike. Very kind lady indeed and although the decor was 50's, it was comfy and pleasant surroundings.
Once on my way I took a turn towards the beach and found it in a shambles with litter strewn everywhere. Seems I was on the edge of the resort since it seemed to get tidier as I approached the town proper. I stopped at an estate combined traval agents and am advised that land is between 1 an 2000 euros per M squared and am struggling to remember completed property rate she mentioned but it sounded suprisingly dear. Later I saw quite a large house needing a new roof and most likely a complete refit. It was alongside the sea which looks more like a lake in these parts and the neighbour thought it was being marketed for 400 000 euros. Crazy I thought.

Later just after having some lunch on a well positioned bench overlooking the sea with wild mountain backdrop, I came to the village of Perast. I got chatting to a joung lady (Darnito) who lives in the village. She says its the best place in Monte.. and is clearly very enthusiastic about the pretty town overlooking two tiny Islands which appear to be floating holding a church each. One is visited by travellers and the other, whilst has a grave yard, is now a private dwelling. The blue domed building on one apparently housed a lady who waited for many years for her lover, a sailor who never returned. She is said to have made a tapestry with her own hair which can be seen. To get across the water, one hires a little motorboat as ferry at 4 euros return. I gleaned all of this while chatting with Darnito who was fishing for her expectant cat Tigo who looked ver ywell fed indeed. I watched as Darnito landed a little fish much to Tigo's delight. She pounced
smartly onto this little fish and made short work of it. Seems that was around the tenth caught and its a daily routine. A little while later a joung fellow arrived in the ferry boat with small Tomos outboard engine. He was Darnito's boyfriend who has been living in London FOR 7 years and now studying fine art. They are to drive to London shortly for a 3 month stay so don'r know how Tigo will cope. Back to tinned food I guess.

I reached the town of Kotor later where the MSC cruise ship Opera out of Venice, I had earlier seen approacching port and whose fog horn I had announced her arrrival. Kotor has had lots of different rulers over the centry's and has been invaded many times. High above the walled town, there are fortifications which can be visited by those with the energy. I got up in about 30 minutes of steep climbing. Great view from above making the ship look quite tiny compared to how she had loomed from below. On the way down I met with Renata from Brazil and her ship mate Paojoimno. They were enjoying some shore leave (burning some calories to absorb the plentiful food aboard, pizza being a favourate apparently) from their 8 or 10 hour shifts looking after the mostly elderly passengers cruising.

Weather this afternoon has been a bit wet so I pedalled of once again feeling rather damp and started to look for another room. I arrived at the oposite side of the bay fro Kotor and have found a large apartment which the lady here with her two joung adult sons have let me have for €10. So here I am again well pastared thumbing away and looking forward to the road again tonorrow for what it will bring. Expecting more wet weather according to the lady in a nearby store. Oh well, one of these days I may find a place to pitch my tent again.
Caio for now.
S.

Seas azure ans islands of green

Friday Oct 8, 1400glhrs.
Now on bumpy train which travels mostly thru tunnels so as expected, only get glimpses of the sea now and again. Goodness gracious me, just been a panic as I'd arrived for a change of trains and happily have now boarded the next one which will head NE I think to Parma. Will have to watch the times more carefully else I'll end up working as a mafia slave down in Scicily somewhere. Next stage about 2 hours so can relax a little. All I can say about La Spezia is that there is a McD's on platform one which is good for a leak and the lift probably is too small to hoick a bicycle. Struggling a bit up and down the stairs. Lifting the weight is the difficult bit at present, my legs are up to the job but arms and back not quite so.
The Hostel at Levanto is the coolest place, One can come and go regardless with free wifi and bathroom for a shave etc, There was time for a quick shop this morning, a scout about for mislaid sunglasses once again. They'll either surface from my pack somewhere or are gonners. The lovely Dutch lady at the hostel gave me another left-behind pair which although probably more fashionable than mine, are darker and so not as suitable for cycling. Oh well com si com su, (sp?)

Also had time to chill out by the beach crunching a couple of carrots and another bottle of Italian beer for lunch.

I cycled out of town into higher ground last evening to find an alternative place to stay, Another night filled with church bells would have driven me nuts.
Found a B&B but he wanted min €30 though he offered a patch of grass next to a caravan gratis so gratefully accepted. Rather damp from the due this morning but the only sound I heard was that of the stream running by. Very pleasant.

So apart from the local commuting and the 2 hour hill walk yesterday, life has been taken relatively easy these last couple of days and if all goes to plan, my next effort full spell on the bike will be in Croatia. I have been given another map this morning from an American fella Ryan I have met who is nearing the end of a two month journey around Europe. Not sure if I mentioned, but he had some bike pannier bags stolen somewhere in Germany so decided to store the bike and has been going on foot and train. He now has to return to Germany foe his flight home collecting the bike on route. Map is whole of Europe and large scale so not ideal for cycling but as good as I have at present. Sometimes I prefer to just steer by compass, following my nose, but rivers without bridges have a habit of turning up. We'll see.
FOt the record, it was Greg from France who tore his map in half for me a few days back now. I thought I'd mislaid his link but have it now so will be in touch again with him hopefully.

Next connection now sorted but had to cross platforms down and up the stairs again. Now in double decker train cruising at 160km/h.
First part of my journey was very hilly with loads of tunnels. Now like a pancake and flying along. Had thought about restarting train journey tomorrow again perhaps some way down the line but a real hasske lumping it up and down at the stations so thought to get it over with. I sat next to an Italian lady who spoke no English earlier so I had a go at using the Nokia dictinary to practise some Iti and to ask her some stuff. Bit of a drag at one word a time but managed to string a couple of phrases together, then altered target language and handed her my phone for her to have a go. We muddled thru but it was quite limiting but funny. Next thing, there were 3 others having a go. Her name is Francesca and she wrote the following in my diary.
Buon Viaggio ti ammiro per per il coraggio. Full marks for translation to simon.wales@talk21.com please.
So I will be in Ancona at 2032hrs and will make my way to the port to enquire about sailings from there asap. May still head down the east coast as only pricked the surface of Italy thus far.
Well now, its 1500hrs Monday 11Th October. The train and therefore I arrived late at Ancuna around 9pm. A taxi driver pointed the port direction and after some wrong turns, I found the port ticket office with just one of the ship's offices open. The young lady at the Blue Line desk was very helpful, suggesting that the difference between a ship to Croatia and one to Greece was 46 to 60 euros so may be better to avoid a longer perhaps wilder trip and wait for a boat to Greece the following morning. I thought about it and decided that Wild Croatia sounded good and spending the night at the port was bad. The Split ferry was running late and should have left but was to leave in around half an hour. So mild rush especially when the computer refused 'said no' to issue a ticket. Said lovely joung lady was though able to provide me with a typed letter referring me with an explanation. So armed, I finally made my way onboard ticketless. There I met with
Frederick, a photographer from Sweden who was astride a 2002, I think BMW FS 650 I believe and had been travelling a long while at around 500kms per day. He had intended riding south along from Morocco then east for a sub Saharan crossing but his bike broke down with a fuel pump problem and so to avoid more expense by importing the part into Morocco, he returned to Spain with bike in tow under alternative steam which was the more economic option. Such is the over sophistication of the modern motorcycle. Frederick concludes to have an older fixable bike to be the bettter option. He was also planning to head south into Syria and Jordon ... For the winter. Only yours truly is set on keeping East. We'll see.
Frederick and I had a good chin wag and then decided to try and organise a cabin to share. Alas, it was too kate and the computer said no again so Frederick crashed out in the casino bar with loud music and ear plugs while I found a quiter spot where others had stretched out on the carpet togeher with a couple of large dogs. I tried to go dow to get my sleeping bag, but all was locked so at least my mat helped. Through the night my knees were cold as I had still hust my cycling shorts so although I was tenpted to nick one of the dog's blankets, I made do placing the mat's bag across my knees. I was up early to watch as we approched the port of Split.

Ever keen to get going, I decided to head out of town directly and regretted this after as 3 others I met all said Split was a great town to see and spend time at.

ALL I can report about Split, is that there is a Lidl store on the way out and its hilly straight away. I found a tiny road running up from the sea with holiday homes mixed with market gardens now being worked instead of concentrating on the summer tourists. After a while, I had to climb again to join the main rd heading east towards Dubrovnik. First impression cycling was one of anxiety as the road was a very busy dual carriage way with no hard shoulder or cyclist provision. I swooped down the straight road almost as fast as the traffic and then climbed to find that the road became a lot quieter and nore relaxing.
The scenery along the coast is quite stunning with a sheer rocky steep mountain view to the left and a glistening lake type sea and Islands to the right. It really is a beautiful coast line. I noticed the change from Italy France and Spain immediately. Less populated, still clearly tourist bent with every other builiding offering rooms to stay, Auto Camps and resturants. But what struck me as markedly different was the sailing boat and cruiser marinas had vanished to be replaced by natural bays forming small harbours for small fishing boats or working boats to carry tourist passengers along the coast.

Later in the morning I met Lance who has been cycling for several months having followed the European coast line having left London for Calais, then turned right and has been all the way, approching now 14000 kms with Istanbul his target after following the Greek coastline. I caught him along the road and got chatting to find that he had spent a couple of nights in Split and was now being accompanied by possibly a splitting headache from a knees up the night before. Had he not been feeling a little delicate, I probably would not have caught him as he is a steady climber once he gets going. He and shared a room at Ingrane that evening and cooked up a good meal of fresh pasta with fish and a good chille sause. I drank most of the beer though as Lance clearly does not believe in the hair of the dog.
In the morning after snooring at each other a bit, I buzzed of at breakneck speed only to be overhauled once Lance warmed up, tgen it was a puff ti keep up. Later we came across the Swiss couple from Zurich who we had seen the day before. They are also heading for the middle east for winter.

Lance and I parted company as he trundled ahead, though once ovee a river valley with its following climb, I was surprised to see him once again ascending behind me. He was set in reaching Dubrivnis yesterday evening so pressed ahead once more. I reached aroind 90kms and decided to stop at a welcoming lookin Auto park. Nobody was about so I settled down and indulged in some delicious figs and apples, Pomegranites were quite bitter though. There was a puppy barking about towing a length of chain and his masters with 3 chidren arrived later. I introduced myself to the lady of the house who explained that they were closed for the season but I could stay gratis which I thankfully did. Pitched my tent and enjoyed an evening with some good grub and homemade red wine. Got away at 830 this morning and stopped briefly at Slano where I visited the school and introduced myself to the IT master Romano, who kindly burned my photos onto a cd for me as I have asked
them to please use any of those of interest along with my ongoing blog diary. The heat is now on though so I will have to cut the waffle and write some hopefully entertaining and educational content going forward.
Before leaving Slano, I met with Slaven in his tourist office. He and I had a good chat. He explained something about the war here with the Serbs several years ago now. I think he said that it wasnow 19 years ago on the 4tg of this month when the Serbs began their 6 month occupation of the area. I am now interested in learning more about it since the local population had a tough time while the Serbs apparently moved in taking what they wanted and burning many homes.

I am now in Dubrovnik, having found a small apartment at less than the hostel rate so happily under a solid roof again since the weather has been a bit wet. Earlier, I spotted another fine looking yacht registered in Gibralter, called Binziyad or Binyiyad. I enquired about her plans and she with her crew of 4 are heading to Athens tomorrow, about a 3 day trip. Unfortunately they do not have room for this vagabond and his bike explaining that the skipper is not the owner and insurance issues. Oh well. I gather the home port for this boat is mostly Palma like many others I have come across.

All for now, my thumbs are numb.