Slipping through Greece

It was rather a long walk to the station as route taken was a bit indirect after several directions offered. Most younger people tend to speak or understand some English. The lady at the station joked at first saying she had no English and I had decided to head for a town or village around 50km inside of Macedonia so needed to be guided as my map has inadequate detail. Her English turned out to be very good happily and she suggested a village called Demir Kapi''oa which is where I am right now (0900hrs Sat 23rd Oct) enjoying a good cheese omlette. That together with a mug of coffee which I was able to make for myself in the kitchen. I can't be doing with this strong Turkish coffee served in tiny cups when I just want a decent hot drink. I had a reasonable kip last night but wa woken by the customers down stairs who really got going at 4am with their singing to several recorded songs, the words of which they obviously knew the off pat. Not at all
unpleasant with several good voices and melodies drifting my way, I imagine the place was filled with just men in a smoky jovial atmosphere which has been the norm in cafe's and bars in the smaller Balkan towns and villages I have travelled through. I lay listening for a while and felt I would have liked to join in but I would have only been able to Laa Laa along and it will have required a lot drinking to catch up with that lot so I just read my book and drifted off again later.

So here I am, having decided to be lazy once again with being carried over self propulsion. No contest really as the train trip was 2.5 hours (scheduled 2) and covered about 120kms I think. The cost was about €2.50 and probably cut my journey time by a couple of days, boosting my budget a little which has been stretched by having avoided the tent for at least 10 days now. Still, at €6 for bed and breakfast last night, its not bad.

I remaked to a fella sat opposite me in the cramped train last night that travelling by train here is hard work and he remarked that it could perhaps be likened to India. I suspect Indian train travel to be much worse though and he conceded that he had not ravelled on an Indian train before. Many people were standing for well over an hour covering just 50km with ten stops along the way. Then most people alighted so must be the regular daily journey for those living in a fair size town commuting to Skopje. I had also to struggle at Skopje station with several flights of long stairs to reach the platform and then to squeeze along a carriage with the bike only just passing between the chairs and one or two grumpy/sleepy travellers.
I was glad to have been able to speak with the driver who kept me informed as to where we were since for me (and even the regular travellers who I'd noticed pearing intently into the darkness for familiar landmarks) it was really impossible to know where we were or when I was to arrive. ETA time had been dodgy guide due to undetermined delay.
I see there is a blue sky once more so looking forward to a good sunshine ride today. Should make the border and beyond perhaps. Greece here I come! Then tenth country in just over 6 weeks!
So here I am (Sunday 24th October at 19rmhrs) well into Greece and on a train heading east from Seres to Alexandropoli which is not far from the southern border of Greece and Turkey. I reached the Greek border from Macedonia yesterday at around 1600hrs and was glad to have done a little food shopping to spend the last of he Macedonian currency since prices are a while lot dearer in Greedy Greece. Vasileia a young lady I am sat next to remarked that since the recent credit crisis, prices are up markedly most likely due to additional taxes etc. I noticed the price of fuel to be about 50% dearer than in the Balkans and she tells me that a beer in a bar at Thessoliki can be around 7 euros now. I have paid 2 euros ealier today which is doule what I have been recently used to.

I had considered staying one more night in Macedonia but had run out of currency so crossed into Greece and was then quoted €30 for a hotel room when I had paid €5 the night before at Demir Kapioa.

The journey from their had been a steady climb at times but then the view of a large lake which I coasted towards and bypassed on my way to the border town which shares its name with the town Dojran opposite on the Greek side. Crossing the border one passes through a kind of no mans land with high fences and a sign welcoming you to Greece. Alongside there are premises belonging to a Greek Orthodox church also behind high barbed wire fences behind which a couple of vicious guard dogs make sure you keep at bay. Not very welcoming after all.
I then headed east towards Podopoli but as it started to get dark I entered a little village to find very few people who could understand English. I approached at least half a dozen and all gestured that I should continue to a hotel some 5kms further on. I had already been quoted €30 but thought I may haggle a bit so trundled on in the twilight. I came to another village and was directed over the railway line where I saw a banner advertising the hotel but when I eventually found it, it was closed. Having already identified a school football field earlier, I headed back and pitched in the dark under a full moon and a chilly prospect ahead. It was the first time I'd camped in about ten days and remember thinking I'd been getting a bit spoilt and soft. Had a good, plenty warm enough sleep though and was packed and away this morning by 0900hrs. Once I had pitched last night, I wondered on foot into the village and found a cafe for a beer and hot dog at
€3.50.
This morning I called in at the same cafe for a mug of coffee and a couple of boiled eggs at €2.

So my journey today to Seres was quite long but mostly level and I had a couple of beers along the way, one of which some friendly locals who had just won their football match paid for.

25th Oct 0945hrs. My reply to Fred who has been in touch.
Hi Fred,

Hope your knees are ok, I remember the roads were rather challenging after Dubrovnik, especially crossing eastward across Albania and the weather was dismal.

Better now however, I am in Alexandranapoli Greece which is not far from Turkish border. Last night was 2nd night in Greece and probably last as I make for Turkey today. I got used to the good Balkan value and have been shocked at the prices in Greece. Had a good 100km slog yesterday to Serres and tgen got on the train. Camped wild both nights so far and saved €70 doing so.

Sorry to hear about your stove, again, I have been spoiled eating at cafe's and resturants before arriving at Greece. I am now sat alone in the breakfast room of Hotel Hera where the nice lady has given me a pot of coffee, 3 pieces of cake/and a croissant with jam for €2. A bargain with Wifi thrown in. Access code 1234567890123. If you come this way, got to be recommended at least for breakfast but they quoted me €45 for a room last night.
Catch you later Fred, take care.

All for now, gobble gobble Turkey is about 40ish kms away and looking forward now.
S.