India

So, first impressions of India. Mixed at the moment. I have arrived at an area which apparently has the highest rate of literacy in India and has been governed and or may continue to be governed by a communist polital party. They seem not to discourage litter, or have it collected. I cycled into the city from the airport where a couple of guys who were running a the only currency exchange shop admitted that their airport rate wasn't competative and that their other premises in town provided a better rate. They suggested heading for the museum where nearby a tourist office was located where I could collect some info/maps. As I left the airport a cafe owner hailed to indicate that he would change money so not having any, I went in and changed £20 plus some SriLankan money I had which the exchange store would not have dealt in and the sterling rate, around 68 was better than the airport rate so felt was reasonable and more could wait to find alternatives
another day. I was only able to get 33% value on the SriLanakan money even though it should be around 50%. So, armed with some cash, I ventured further into the unknown. I had been given some directions which happily was to follow a single road bearing right occasionally towards/the city about 8kms away, My goal was to find the museum where a tourist office opposite was to be found. Shortly after leaving the airport perimeter, I cycled past a beach and on rounding a corner, met a large sculptured statue in stone or quite likely concrete to look like stone, of a good figured nude lady lying down n her side leaning on her elbow in a classic pose. I'd estimate the length to be 30m at least and 5m tall at the right shoulder. Impressive but somehow out of place in an otherwise almost shanty type setting with just a few old houses about and some tiny stores. I had passed some fishing boats along the beach just before and the temp was around 25 degrees at
0900hrs. I pulled off the road at a rustic 'hotel' now knowing that its the name they give to a tea room or resturant where there are no rooms or beds to be had. I enquired as to the faire and it was chicken or beef with pancake type bread. This turned out to be chicken though I had asked for beef and along with the bread and a couple of fried Indian things, the bill came to around 45 Rupees I think. I had been told that SriLanka was mostly dearer than India but so far not the case. In SriLanka I ate mostly their local curries and a good helping of rice often with 3 or 4 vegetable curries along with fish, I could be well satisfied for at most 150 Rupees, or just over £1. A meal like this is always accompanied with a jug or glass of water which tastes best after the often spicy/hot chillied flavours. All sorts of vegetables are used, my favourates being egg plant, as well as pumpkin. Sometimes an onion salad combines to make a tremendous tranche of
tastes.
The beef I ordered turned out to be chicken and the fried lumps were added to my bill. The levened bread was ok but rice for me is preferable.
I cycled into the town and after asking the way a couple of times, came across the city library where I stopped to see some maps. No cycle parking anywhere to be seen so I leant my bike against a hedge and went in. I was immediately directed to the exit again to offload my rucksac and asked to fill in a visitor book with id number. Then upstairs to the reference section where I was shown to some ancient world atlases when the roads must have been traversed only by animal drawn carts and the place names altered several times. I suspected this source to be of little use to me and the librarian shuffled through some lealets to find a tourist map of the region. I asked her if I could have this or get a photocopy but she explained that due to it being Sunday, the sabbath, it was not permitted to copy. Desperate, I asked for a piece of paper and started to make a sketch of this map. A young fellow observing my frustration and predicament advised that I could
get a free copy of the map at the tourist office nearby. This after the librarian had pointed out an ancient looking book entitled Indian Tourist Today. Glancing at the cover, I expected it to have been published in the 50's but it was in fact 1994, only 16 years ago, but flicking through revealed no maps or pictures at all. So off I pedalled and finally found the tourist office amongst the busy hooting traffic. There a young man handed me a couple of maps and some leaflets for the Kerala region.
He directed me onto a road which led past a YMCA which he advised would cost around 1000rupees.
I decicded to head out of the city heasing east towarda the coast. On the way, I stopped for a beer in a busy bar . Kingfisher Lager seems to dominate with the strongest being around 6% and dearer than SriLankan Lion which is up to 8.8%, the latter I would most often dillute with 50% water to get 2 beers in effect. Thus fortified, I proceeded my journey over a busy and bumpy road some 20kms away. I headed directly to Kovalam beach which tirnedd out to be littered with day touriists and their discarded waste. I pushed the bike past a beach building into a palm grove and sat down to have some bread and jam which I'd bought along the way. A local map showed a harbour nearby and I cycled back up the hill to reach a main road heading south. Then onto a smaller track which had a lighthouse signposted. Following this road alongside a steep edge leading to the sea past some small houses and shanty's with occasional signs pointing to resorts in amongst the messy
village streeta. No evidence of litter colllection or bins anywhere made for a dirty untidy area. Then amongst the debris, a Mosque appears and across the fishing harbour, a Christian church stands as though competing for attention. I trundled on and typically met with an accomodation tout who assessed my budget to some extent and showed me to a concrete lump of a house where I was shown a grubby room with basic shower and loo for a min. Haggled down price of 300 Rupees, or just over £4.30 each night. The most I had paid in SriLanka Rupees had been 800 or around 400 Indian Rupees, nearly £6 until I wisened up and searched out similar places starting at 200, just over a pound.
I didn't rate the room I was being offered and always am inclined to compare at least one alternative and definitely without the tout who had his cut built into the price, I headed up the hill and came across a big Christian house, obviously so by the bible passages and references painted on the walls outside. I knocked and a middle aged Indian Lady came to the door to find me wearily leaning against my bike. Exchanging smiles, I asked about a room, while miming that it was a big house and that I hoped there was a place for me to stay tge night. Clearly not speaking any English, she beckoned me to sit on the porch and wait while she spoke with another on the phone. 5 minutes later a Gent came through the gate having arrived by Tuk Tuk and consulted with the lady briefly who handed him a note then went to leave again, only to return soon after paying his fare.
He then introduced himself as the householder and sat with me and shared a cup of tea while I was able to explain my hopes for the night. I was given a room which seemed to be used for storeing stuff and sewing. One of the two beds cleared madee ample room and there was an ensuite shower and loo. I met with their son and enjoyed a beef curry. Showering and early to sleep, but awoken at 2130 after an hour or so to enquire if I wanted to eat again. Politely declining, I returned to slumber and slept right through some heavy rain. It gad been a long haul from Colombo where I had arrived at the airport late in the evening and had not slept a wink throughout the night before.
I wandered down to the fish market in the mirning and haggled for a large pieapple for breakfast on the way back. Packed, said my thanks and farewells, I cycled up the hill again and went in search or another beach for a swim. All along the coast, are tiny houses up agaist the hill, most of which are a stonethrow from the beach. I followed a small path between a row or houses to a pathe which lead to a pleasant looking beach even though there were signs of black oil in the sand. Turns out according to one resort owner, that this is not oil at all, but naturally a mixture of black and white sand. He thought it may be caused by an abundance of mussels and other shell fish. I was shown to a basement room with ensuite and negotiated two nights for 500R which I felt reasonable. There are many fewer tourists this year and the property owners are accepting what they can to avoid otherwise empty rooms. I was two minutes walk to the beach down some steps past a
reasonable resturant where I breakfasted and swapped warm for cold beer a couple of times. Swimming was ok but waves breaking close to the steep shore. The nearby village was a steep ride up the hill about 1.5kms away where I could get a good curry with the locals served up on a large banana leaf with water from the jug. 40R gets you all the rice you can eat with a good selection of veg. Curries and sauses. Added portions of fish cost 15 or 20r more.
So after 3 days around Kovalam, it was time to head north.
I reached Varkala beach in the evening after a drenching rain which although very wet is pleasantly warm. A Tuk Tuk driver offered to show me to a reasonably priced room and I followed him at first and decided to wander off the road in the darkness towards a Hindu Temple calling its community to a gathering. Enquiries for a room were met with directions back to the main road where I was rediscovered by the taxi driver who once again beckoned me to follow another 2kms along some very dark and flooded tracks. Finally we came to the resort of Varkalla, North Cliff' with its many hotels and residences. I managed to squeeze the price to 325r a night and promptly slept. In the morning, I went to look about and had a good swim. The best swim on my trip so far. I must have been in the water riding the waves for a good while before returning to recce for alternative room/s. I found another place comparable and agreed 500r for 3 more nights. The town was around
3kms away and I was able to buy some quick drying shorts for swimming and post some goodies back home for Julie and the children. In Town, there was a good place 'Mango Drive in Resturant' to have a great veg curry for 40r. There I met the temporary town hippie Taj from Canada who has decided to travel permanently now that he has sold his nursery business so reckons at 59, he no longer needs to work but can move around the works on a constant tour. He had been in Varkala for a couple of months I think, at first renting a small house at 1200r per month. He is planning to go to Malaysia next so may bump into him again possibly. Chances are thin, but a fella I met motorcycling from Ancona Italy met in the street once and in a resturant again by chance while we were in Istanbul!
Varkala is a popular resort up against a cliff overlooking the ever warm Arabian sea. At night, Hundreds of fishing boat lights are seen several miles offshore. Good sea food can be had and although prices are higher than probably most of the locals would be prepaired to pay, I had a large Blue Marlin steak chips and salad for almost £3. If one can even get it back home or in Europe, in that setting ovelooking a moonlit sea with good music blending with the lapping waves down on the shore below, the price would surely be many many times this much.
A further 3 nights later, some photos along the beach,several swims and good meals, I was reluctant to leave but ever on with my bike tyres beginning to show rather worn tyres and gear changes now not easily had. Faith, that I would find good beaches and surf further north.
I followed a small road north following the lagoons or backwaters which the literature enthuises about promoting boat rides and overnight stays on for,er fishing boats wich have been converted to mini floating residences for folks to cruise on enjoying fresh fish meals along the way. I started to look for a room in the evening but foud none so knocked on the door of a small house on the second row back fron the beach in a dominantly fishing village. I beckoned the lady who came to thw door to follow me across her sandy front garden shared with her absent neighbour and explained that I wanted to pitch my tent on the sand for the night. she appeared to understand and agreed before returning indoors. I started to pitch in the twilight and before long many of the villagers came along to witneas this strange traveller with even stranger ativity of setting up camp with a cloth house. Before long I was surrounded by curious folk and one of which anounced
authoritavely that I could not stay since the owner of the property was away and had been informed of my presence and intentions and had forbidden my being there. I explained to this village elder who had goodish English that I had asked the lady in the adjoining house and had been given permission. It was not for her to do so and she had probably misunderstood me so I would have to move on. I accepted, though annoyed saying that I was suprised at the lack of welcome and that I would appreciate if this gentleman could please ask the lady who I had thought given me permission, if I could move my tent in front of her hoise some 5 m away. He then explained that I could stay in his garden nearby. Gratefully, I accepted his offer and he waited 10 minutes whule I packed up then accompanied him home. There he introduced me to his wife and some family who were visiting for a funeral. They invited me for dinner and breakfast in the morning. I also met some of their grown up
children, a philosophy student and a teacher of psychology.
With many thanks after a comfortable dry night in the tent, I parted to the north, but realised 12kms down the road that I had left my cycle helmet so had to add another 24kms to my journey that day in order to retrieve it. In the evening of the 6th December, I reached Alappuzha. I had a beer in a beach front resturant and got chatting to a lady from Quebec who is fluent in French and Spanish but whose English is limited but better than my French which I have not had to stutter since my high school days more than 30 years ago. But we managed in part and it was after ten in the evening when she wondered off and I started to scout about for a room. It being very dark, with those places I did find seemingly locked up for the night. There was one security gaurd who advised that the rooms were 7000 per night equivalent to my monthly accom. budget so I decided to pitch on the beach. Up early for a swim, I returned to my tent to find a gentleman waiting. He
was a jounalist from the local newspaper who had been tipped off by a friend playing football on the beach. News travels fast via mobile phones these days. Several photos and a story followed to ensure my celebrity/tramp status. I have now seen my colour photo mugshot and gobbledegook printed article running to about 400 words in the paper which I have photographed and will have translated to check what has been written.
Later I found the beachfront Mandala mini hotel which was full but they offered a patch of sand for my tent in which I slept for a further two nights, having access to a loo and shower. On the third night I took a room then moved on. Next door to Mandala there is a neater place with some freindly staff, good hammocks and better but slow arriving breakfast. I met some German, Austrian, and Portugese folk and one day we took a trip a couple of miles offshore on a local fishing boat which trawled for a good catch of prawns and a large crab which we enjoyed later.
Having moved on, I am now at Fort Kochi, an historcal port town with Portugese, Dutch, English and Jewish influences. I attended a service a St Francis, the oldest Christian church in India this morning and am staying 2 nights at the very comfotable and poshest so far Fort Garden Residency resulting from a visit to the Church yesterday afternoon at a very reasonable cost.
I will move on again at around 11am tomorrow 13/12)10 and may stay at Cherai beach on an Island , a short ferry crossing and about 15kms nearby to the north. I see that in 2 days time I will have been travelling for 3 months. I started out with £1000 in cash and have paid for all travel apart from flights, accomodation and food. I am now left with £120. My average daily spend is now just under the targeted £10 and reducing. I will need to buy some new tyres and an innertube soon but may have to widen the valve hole to accept a regular innertube fitting. My back tyre punctured for the 6th time today so hope I can get all sorted soon. All for now.
Oh, and hope that any readers are enjoying the run up to Cristmas. I know how strange it will feel being away from the my family for the first time. Here in Fort Kochi there are many christian folk and I have enjoyed hearing Christmas carols being sung including this morning a favourate of mine I first remember hearing when 7 years old which I call A Rump a Pum Pum. I'm sure you know it.