Indian Wrestling

Its Saturday evening 30th of Sept. On Turkish airways flight to Bahrain. Beginning to think it was a crazy choice but it has meant heading south west ffrom Istanbul towards the east and away from the creeping cold european weather. An Irish lady whose husband is a pilot in Bahrain commented that cycling there was not the done thing and that most people rent a car and that the Island is rather small and can be seen in a few days. No trains or many buses apparently so we'll have to see. I spent this morning searching fro flight options having decided to skip Iran and Pakistan. One option was to fly to Bangladesh via Dubai but the cost had increased by the time I reached the airport so I decided to check out other options by studying the destination board. Getting the bike on the plane (hope its on) was a nightmare where first they insisted on it being wrapped in cellophane. I argued some sense though suggesting that if the wheels were left free, it would
make it easier to load. Then they insisted that I remove the tent, sleeping mat and front paniers which I then had to tie together with some rope and hope. The flight takes 3.5 hours and I am advised that I can get an entry visa on arrival but have no idea of the cost. I'm pretty knackered though feel ready ready for any road traffic challenge after the successful but hairy ride to Istanbul airport from the city centre.
Now Sunday 31st evening at 2030hrs and in a short whille I will be boarding a flight to Colombo Banladesh. I had a rather dissapointing day at the Indian Embassy. What I perceive to be an opportunity to make potential visitors welcome, turned out to be quite the opposite with conflicting information given by their officials and a potential 4 day wait while they hold on to your passport and expect you to provide an address eg. hotel who would no doubt request to see ones passport. This, after they have sent you across the road to obtain one copy of your passport for their admin purposes. I had two good quality black and white photos which their first official accepted and stapled carelessly onto the application. Then waited in queue for an hour to be told about needing an address for reasons I do not understand and the holed photos rejected. Swcond lady also then told me that I would need to sort this lot out by 12 noon when all application would have to
wait until tge next day. Then she said tgere would be a 4 day wait in any case. I felt very put off and went to express my being upset and discouraged from travelling to India afterall when for many years I had looked forward to doing so. + spoke with the consul deputy who tried to establish how they may help with my circumstances. I explained about having intended travelling ASAP and budget restricted so hotel accommodation not being affordable at around 50 pounds per night minimum. Another lady, the consuls assistant then said that it may be possible to do it quicker, by perhaps the next day but depended on London Office confirmation so could not be sure.
I had explained about my not having arranged visas from London because of being on an unpredictably long cycle journey and the deputy seemed to think that was not suitable and unless I was associated and or sponsored by a recognised organisation, their was nothing he could do so like Poncious Pilot, he washed his hands of the affair and left me wondering what motivation caused him to take that view. I gave up feeling very dejected and thought how others must have experienced the same prevention system. I left and returned some minutess later to write the Consul General a letter about my experience and difficulty there. I will publish this letter on the website at a later date and trust that I will receive a reply and some consideration to my observations.

Oh well, if at second you don't succeed try....
So I am off to Bangladesh where I am informed they are willing to issue a visa on arrival and hope that a third attempt at visiting an Indian Consulate to apply for a visa outside my home country will be a more positive experience. Else, a visit to India may never have been on the cards afterall. Again, we'll have to wait and see.

By the way, Bahrain is an indoor place unless you are an early morning walker, or a park worker.

Many very impatient drivers who do not appreciate that cyclists cannot simply dissapear out of their way. Petrol is 20p a litre. large villas are built on reclaimed land and shell fisherman fly around at great speed in motorboats. I understand that pearls are dived for here but I have not seen much really while trying to keep clear of manic drivers, coverless road drains, unhelpful vias officials and hot humid dusty air. The aiport staff here though are very freindly and far more accomodative towards crazy cyclist travellers, pleasantly human. So much more so than the automaton robot like the Turkish Airline check in staff at Istanbul.

Gota go

2nd Day Istanbul

People People and more People

Stıll ın Istanbul where there ıs a natıonal holıday today so all consulates closed untıl Monday.

Weather stıll horrendous though a lıttle dryer today. Only have accommodatıon for thıs evenıng agaın so must get goıng somehow tomorrow.

Have got ferry across to Asıan sıde of Istanbul today for traın enquırıes and so may begın journey towards Ankara where there are more embassıes.

Even though ıts a holıday here wıth many busınesses closed the place ıs stıll hummıng. 15 mıllıon ısh people apparently and quıte expensıve. Seems ıts as much to eat out as ıts to buy food ın markets or shops.

Have been lıvıng on kebabs and drıed fruıt. Also had an egg and cheese roll wıth salad thıs mornıng whıch was good. Beer very expensıve.

Istanbbul one crazy place

So here I am feeling fraudulent again floating at 90kms/h towards Istanbul some 160kms away. Its 1055hrs and as I was getting ready fir some more rain, a coach pulled over to let a passenger embark. I felt my left arm and thumb automatically extend and happily the driver stopped for me and the bike which slid effortlessly into a luggage bay. The coach is only a third full and will take me all the way to the city. Its pouring out so glad to be warm and dry. The bill though seems high at 15 Turkish Lira. I was able to giive him 5 euros and 5Tl, as I only have 10Tl left and must try to change for some again soon.
I camped last night in a garden surrounded by meteorological instruments. I had noticed this place on my town hunt for accomodation. I found two hotels and one wanted 35Tl or about 18 euros and another I managed to Haggle down to 20 Tl but the stark room offered on the top 4th floor with dodgy winding staircase put me off so I decided to scout about for a spot to camp. I had earlier passed a park with some community buildings and took a turn in there where I asked a group of 4 teenagers what the place was and if I could camp. No No they replied and with pidgeon English managed to explain that the place was frequented by unsociable drinking types and would be dangerous. They invited me to their 'School House' which turned out to be their school and the teachers who had less English than they, appeared somewhat suprised at whom their pupils had brought. An enquiry was made and reply that a hotel would be 35Tl. Thanking them for their help, I sauntered off
and made my way back to the weather station which is located about 100m from the main rd and therfore a little noisy but good soft lawn. I found the offices locked up, but saw a young boy peering through the window of an adjacent bungalow, I walked around the house and was met by a joung man who resided there. I beckoned him to come with me so I could mime the action of camping, whilst showing him my touring gear loaded on the bike. A quick phone call followed an agreement and he showed me to an area next to the weather station's office building, where I happily pitched my tent. He and his son came over to say hello a little later and I asked him if there was water available from the hose I had seen on the lawn. He managed some English and explained that there was no water to be had outside but asked his son to go and collect something. Keys for the office followed by a new 20 litre bottle of water.

A little while later, I took a walk up the hill into town and bought some olives, some red wine and a small packet of fruit gums for the little boy as a way of thanking him for letting me camp in his garden. On the way back to my tent, I noticed how quiet and peaceful the dangerous park appeared and thought how much quieter camping there may have been. Good thing though was I'd got permission and my tent and things were surely more secure as a result. Though I remember reading about Turkish culture ealier in the year when we holidayed as a family for a week back in August. Apparently thieves are considered the lowest of the low here in Turkey and stealing can be viewed more serious than a murder resulting from a partner's unfaithful actions for example. All about honour I understand. The Turkish people seem to be very nationalistic as there are flags all over. Its as if they are making sure that people know where they are all the time.
The terrain has been one of rolling hills aalong a straight busy two lane national road leading due east to Istanbul with occasional towns with not too pleasant multiple high rise appartment buidings abundant. I pulled of the road and visited a smaller farming community village yesterday which was more attractive to me even though the picnic area leading to the villlage was typically littered which I find unpleasant. They may have national pride with flags but do not seem to deal with litter in the same way. Not unlike many places I have travelled through and unfortunately laike back home in England I have to concede.
A quick visit to their village store with accompanying curiosity about one strange traveller on biciclette, produced a litre of fruit juice which I despatched gratefully. I didn't manage much mileage yesterday as my legs were feeling rather lazy battleing with the hills and head wind. You'd think I'd learn, but I still often manage to start off a bit too hastily rather than gently warming up to peak performance and then find I've strained my muscles a bit causing prolonged discomfort.

My first evening in Turkey you may remember, only night before last was spent at an hotel. Cheap at 15Tl, meant I could happily go for an evening wonder about the town. Unfortunately it was raining and I didn't get far. I was immediately distracted by a cake and cookie shop where I undulged in some very sweet pastries, also tasting a very creamy drink. All at 3 Tl, a bargain. Then I wondered into an cafe' and ordered some rice and meatballs with a youghurt type drink which is popular. Well, the rice arrived on a seperate dish with chick peas. So I had 4 plates altogether, Rice, meatballs, some very hot chillis and several slices of fresh bread. Perhaps I really looked hungry! Well I managed some of the bread but had to leave some and felt that they must have thought my eyes were too big for my tummy. The bill came to 10Tl so will try to avoid making the same mistake again next time.

The following morning, yesterday, I walked around the town looking for a bicycle shop. I was directed to a motorcyle/scooter spares shop which stocked some bicycle stuff but neither by tyres, nor my innertubes. I may have to widen the innertube valve hole to accept larger diameter valves as those types are more readily available.

This town Ipsala clearly caters for the surrounding farming community with many small tractor repair, spares and servicing business. The town gun shop has pistols, shot guns and two .22 air rifles at reasonable prices.
I also found out that a popular 2 stroke 70km/h pedalled moped can be purchased new at about €500.

I just caught a glimpse of the sea to the right so Istanbul ever nearer. 1220hrs still drizzling.

Once I have established a place to stay, I will try and find a helpful travel agent for some advice on onward travel. Maybe I can bypass Iran and Pakistan and head directly for India. Either way, I will have to sort oit visa's for all, India as well. I have a desire to see Iran and Pakistan but many folk have opinioned that travel there may be insecure. Others have said fine though with certain areas and travel after dark to be avoided. Back in Brighton, I met a retired Iranian doctor who enthuised about travelling through but also remarked that some areas were less secure. Like anywhere else really! As ever, time and budget will be important factors. India looms large so expect it to be a monster crossing. With Turkey and Iran also being big, I will most likely spend some days in Istanbul deciding next move. The resturant manager at the hotel where we stayed in the summer had following to say about Istanbul. Many joung men, unemployed with nothing to
do but scratch for a living in some way. Not a formula for peaceful, lawful and secure society he opinioned. Again, like many other places. Rain now pelting down. Should have asked the weather fella what to expect over the coming days. I'm looking forward to visiting Istanbul. Although I generally prefer villages to cities, this is one city that appeals as the gateway to Asia. Hopefully I can avoid the regular earthquakes and enjoy the city atmosophere and culture.
Have arrived and very wet, need to wonder around and continue to look for a place to stay but its 10pm already so could be a long night.

All for now,

S.

First night in Turkey

It was an easy ride Hillwise to Turkey from Alexandrapoli. Estimate around 70km and mostly flat with smooth final 10kms.

Getting through the border was an issue though with no fewer than 4 posts requiring to see one's passport at Turkey end. Also had to buy a visa at £10 or €15 so used £s, it being the second visa purchased for Turkey this year.

About 1 and 3 kms from the border there are a couple of hotels along the main road and I enquired at the 2nd one to be told that the asking price was €20 because there is demand from students this time of the year. A chap at the border said I could pay 10 Lira or
about €5.

However, if you turn left at traffic lights and go into Ipsala town, there is the Sebat Hotel where I have a basic room with two beds for 15 Lira which is fine. Again wifi is available and a hot shower. One needs to ask for a towel.

When I arrived at the hotel it was already dark at around 7pm. This morning, whilst I was up and decamped quite early, I rode back into town and found the hotel with wifi so did not get away again till after 12 then stopped for another coffee and sausage roll before I really got going around 1pm.

Touching wood, I have travelled without puntures all the way from Barcellona, but this afternoon I picked up one in each wheel. Passing a coachat the roadside, I noticed the passengers returning from a sand track and curiosity got the better of me so I stopped to see what the attraction was. There is an ancient Roman road which crossed to Turkey and over what is now Macedonia where I have been through. This road details of which to follow dates back to before Christ and was apparently the first Roman road to have been built beyond Rome or Italy at the time.

All very interesting but must also be a thorny track by now, two punctures later. I managed to find the rear one but could not the front, so had to remove the wheel and tube and dip into water.

I have been mostly cheesed off with the constant rubbish and debris along the roads fron careless passing motorists/litterbugs. However I did find a large plastic bottle with lid which I was able to convert into a tube dipping bath in a puddle I found off the main road. Puncture located and repaired I moved on but still have a slow leak in the front tyre which I will need to sort out in the morning. All that messing about, delayed me by about an hour and more so must try and get a good distance tomorrow hopefully.
All for now,
S.

been lucky with

Slipping through Greece

It was rather a long walk to the station as route taken was a bit indirect after several directions offered. Most younger people tend to speak or understand some English. The lady at the station joked at first saying she had no English and I had decided to head for a town or village around 50km inside of Macedonia so needed to be guided as my map has inadequate detail. Her English turned out to be very good happily and she suggested a village called Demir Kapi''oa which is where I am right now (0900hrs Sat 23rd Oct) enjoying a good cheese omlette. That together with a mug of coffee which I was able to make for myself in the kitchen. I can't be doing with this strong Turkish coffee served in tiny cups when I just want a decent hot drink. I had a reasonable kip last night but wa woken by the customers down stairs who really got going at 4am with their singing to several recorded songs, the words of which they obviously knew the off pat. Not at all
unpleasant with several good voices and melodies drifting my way, I imagine the place was filled with just men in a smoky jovial atmosphere which has been the norm in cafe's and bars in the smaller Balkan towns and villages I have travelled through. I lay listening for a while and felt I would have liked to join in but I would have only been able to Laa Laa along and it will have required a lot drinking to catch up with that lot so I just read my book and drifted off again later.

So here I am, having decided to be lazy once again with being carried over self propulsion. No contest really as the train trip was 2.5 hours (scheduled 2) and covered about 120kms I think. The cost was about €2.50 and probably cut my journey time by a couple of days, boosting my budget a little which has been stretched by having avoided the tent for at least 10 days now. Still, at €6 for bed and breakfast last night, its not bad.

I remaked to a fella sat opposite me in the cramped train last night that travelling by train here is hard work and he remarked that it could perhaps be likened to India. I suspect Indian train travel to be much worse though and he conceded that he had not ravelled on an Indian train before. Many people were standing for well over an hour covering just 50km with ten stops along the way. Then most people alighted so must be the regular daily journey for those living in a fair size town commuting to Skopje. I had also to struggle at Skopje station with several flights of long stairs to reach the platform and then to squeeze along a carriage with the bike only just passing between the chairs and one or two grumpy/sleepy travellers.
I was glad to have been able to speak with the driver who kept me informed as to where we were since for me (and even the regular travellers who I'd noticed pearing intently into the darkness for familiar landmarks) it was really impossible to know where we were or when I was to arrive. ETA time had been dodgy guide due to undetermined delay.
I see there is a blue sky once more so looking forward to a good sunshine ride today. Should make the border and beyond perhaps. Greece here I come! Then tenth country in just over 6 weeks!
So here I am (Sunday 24th October at 19rmhrs) well into Greece and on a train heading east from Seres to Alexandropoli which is not far from the southern border of Greece and Turkey. I reached the Greek border from Macedonia yesterday at around 1600hrs and was glad to have done a little food shopping to spend the last of he Macedonian currency since prices are a while lot dearer in Greedy Greece. Vasileia a young lady I am sat next to remarked that since the recent credit crisis, prices are up markedly most likely due to additional taxes etc. I noticed the price of fuel to be about 50% dearer than in the Balkans and she tells me that a beer in a bar at Thessoliki can be around 7 euros now. I have paid 2 euros ealier today which is doule what I have been recently used to.

I had considered staying one more night in Macedonia but had run out of currency so crossed into Greece and was then quoted €30 for a hotel room when I had paid €5 the night before at Demir Kapioa.

The journey from their had been a steady climb at times but then the view of a large lake which I coasted towards and bypassed on my way to the border town which shares its name with the town Dojran opposite on the Greek side. Crossing the border one passes through a kind of no mans land with high fences and a sign welcoming you to Greece. Alongside there are premises belonging to a Greek Orthodox church also behind high barbed wire fences behind which a couple of vicious guard dogs make sure you keep at bay. Not very welcoming after all.
I then headed east towards Podopoli but as it started to get dark I entered a little village to find very few people who could understand English. I approached at least half a dozen and all gestured that I should continue to a hotel some 5kms further on. I had already been quoted €30 but thought I may haggle a bit so trundled on in the twilight. I came to another village and was directed over the railway line where I saw a banner advertising the hotel but when I eventually found it, it was closed. Having already identified a school football field earlier, I headed back and pitched in the dark under a full moon and a chilly prospect ahead. It was the first time I'd camped in about ten days and remember thinking I'd been getting a bit spoilt and soft. Had a good, plenty warm enough sleep though and was packed and away this morning by 0900hrs. Once I had pitched last night, I wondered on foot into the village and found a cafe for a beer and hot dog at
€3.50.
This morning I called in at the same cafe for a mug of coffee and a couple of boiled eggs at €2.

So my journey today to Seres was quite long but mostly level and I had a couple of beers along the way, one of which some friendly locals who had just won their football match paid for.

25th Oct 0945hrs. My reply to Fred who has been in touch.
Hi Fred,

Hope your knees are ok, I remember the roads were rather challenging after Dubrovnik, especially crossing eastward across Albania and the weather was dismal.

Better now however, I am in Alexandranapoli Greece which is not far from Turkish border. Last night was 2nd night in Greece and probably last as I make for Turkey today. I got used to the good Balkan value and have been shocked at the prices in Greece. Had a good 100km slog yesterday to Serres and tgen got on the train. Camped wild both nights so far and saved €70 doing so.

Sorry to hear about your stove, again, I have been spoiled eating at cafe's and resturants before arriving at Greece. I am now sat alone in the breakfast room of Hotel Hera where the nice lady has given me a pot of coffee, 3 pieces of cake/and a croissant with jam for €2. A bargain with Wifi thrown in. Access code 1234567890123. If you come this way, got to be recommended at least for breakfast but they quoted me €45 for a room last night.
Catch you later Fred, take care.

All for now, gobble gobble Turkey is about 40ish kms away and looking forward now.
S.

Arrived in Macedonia

Just had good nights sleep at The Flip Hostel in Skopje Macedonia.
The Hostel is near the Bizantine castle and also nearby Rubin Karmin which was an old communistic period jwellery factory. The Hostel is run my Ardian a theatre event manager who has very good English. At 10 euros for a room on my own but holding 4 potentially is apparently reasonable. I have been offered wid tea and bread with homemade jam and a tasty pepper sause.
A young stage and TV actress by the name Filis showed me to the hostel and for all those single fellas following in my wake, she is very pretty an Single too.
The journey from Prizren in Kosovo to Skopje is an easy mostly downhill, especially from the border, journey of around 55kms.

Skopje from what I have seen so far really swings with a busy social night life with many bars returants and cafe's. I went to eat at a cafe' near to the jazz club and had Tauc'e Shopska and Rakisa I think. Good salad, a bean stew, bread and a strong aperatif 50%.
I then listened to a good band which did a track on a well known Shepherd who back in 2000 ish lost his sheep in a bombing raid or some fighting, but subsequently was compensated by an unusually large amount of money suspected of being a scam/money laundering.

This morning I will trundle off down to the railway station and see about trains towards Greece or other and where the weather had been an excuse, no longer, as I see a blue sky outside, but we'll see.
Speed and budget issues will help to decide.
Bye for now.
S.

Blasted rain but Macedonia some 50kms away

I am in Ferizay near to Urosevac some 55 ish kms from Skopje in Macedonia.

Good nights sleep in what is quite a busy town with many small cafe's and resturants offering what looks like good at very reasonable prices compared to West.

Staying at Motel Valdrini or Valdrivi in large comfortable suite with global tv and balcony for 15 euros haggled down from 20.

I found a market stall on my way yesterday selling cycle bits. I bought

2 brake blocks
8 patches and glue
Inner and outer brake cable
New but annoying right hand mounted Dynamo

All above for 7 euros. Back home, the dynamo would have more than this alone! Crazy world!

Roads here are busy ,narrow and lumpy so dangerous for cycling. I managed to get two lifts yesterday. One, about 10kms from Nissan 4x4 causing occupants to share back seat with cycle front end. I was rather embarrassed with there effort and generosity despite my pleading for them not to worry when it was found the bike would not fit easily and I was to be the 5th passenger. Then I called at resturant where they had dropped me off and anaged to get a lift (Approx 30kms) with a Merc lorry which had a hoist and was empty so no probs.

So arrived in the town at about 1700hrs,

Woken up this morning to yet more rain so have to just get on with getting wet.

Carry on Kosovo

I arrived in Kosovo the day before yesterday and managed soon after to find digs in an unfinished motel which the buider/owner let me stay for €8, which I was happy with since soon earlier I had been qouted €40. Not a good night sleep though as there is 24hr road building going on behind the property and a rock breaking bulldozer was hammering away all night.
The suburbs in Kosovo immediately differed from Albania revealing more established and less run down environment.

I set of for Prizren At about 9am on another overcast drizzly day. The roads being very wet and muddy meant having to put up with splattery spray from all the passing traffic. At least my route through Albania the roads while very steep
were quite from traffic. From the border the road climbs gently towards Prizren some 15kms away and even though grimey, some flat sections were a real treat for a change.
On the way in to town, I noticed several market stalls on the left and I stopped for a snoop. Then entered a covered market which is quite large with many traders offering just about anything one can carry away.
I found a small shortwave radio which hopefully could allow me to tune into the bbc world service now and then.
One enters the town on a one way system and I had another hunt around for a bike store as my spd shoes are now about to perrish and to see if I could spot other similar radios.
Neither were found but I di remembe passing by a small bicycle repairer that may be wortg a visit for some bits before moving on. Later I tried to make my way back to the covered market but at first could not find the same road I had entered on. This oneway system here is frustrating as it takes one a long way round the town. I decided then to enquire about wifi and was direted to a bar by the bane of Barcode not obviously named other that labels on steel drums outside. It is near to an old bridge across the river towards the top of the town where the oneway system bares left. Had a beer and checked emails. So round I went again and happily found it the right road once more.

I decided to try and barter the windup radio which I had bought Back in England since it only has AM and FM but a handy light which I can do without. So whilst demonstrating my more expensive bargain of a swap, Adem was called over as someone with a little English. He helped me get the message across yhen decided to buy my radio for the same price of the one I wanted. Deal done. Adem then invited meto his clothing store for some coffee which arrived later after a good chat. The coffee was excellent and somehow came topped with cream and sprinkled coffee decorated in the shape of a spiders web. I asked Adem if he could write his name and perhaps an email address into my diary for the day. He is ot a computer user though and wrote hs address instead, the offered to have me for guest overnight. Well here I am still in bed having met with his wife and daughter, feasted, clothes washed, then later in a quite typically smoke filled bar,introduced to some of
his Albanian mates, including a deputy minister for health and social development. I did mention the irony and explained about the smoke free public buildings back home and that perhaps he should promote the same to which the interpreted reply was too many problems caused.
Inevitably, I have been offered my room for another night but must gratefully move on. It has been recommended to travel through Macedonia, then on to Greece rather than the more direct route through Bulgaria. As there are likely to be more burglars in Bulgaria. Always intended to travel through Greece anyway, but am glad to have diverted across to the Balkans instead of travelling the length of Italy.

Puke' Albania

Just a quick note.

1100hrs Sun 17th Oct.
Spent last night in only hotel here in Puke' Albania after a mammoth ride thru thhe mountains, rain, darkness, lightening, mist and poiice eacort.

Slept well, clothes tumble dried, breakfasted on half a scrawny but likely free range chicken and fresh bread roll with liptons ice tea.

On way now to Kuke's towards Kosovo. Hope it flattens a bit and the weather turns kinder.

All for now,

S.

All are wheeking and dealing here in Albania

Albania. Arrived earlier this afternoon at the border which suddenly appears through the sticks. I had been travelling in rhe hills most of the afternoon with the occasional village dotted about. There was a queue of around 10 cars so I hopped forward abreast of the passport office and lead car. Obviously some commotion in progress as it seemed as though one or more of the passengers documents were not in order. Much debating and remonstrating prevailed when finally I had my mugshot transferred to their computer via a scanner' then some manual input and I was through.

You are immediately presented with a couple of banking billboards and somme kiosks promoting I don,t know what. Then riding through a rural area with farmstead either sid of the road with curious and friendly folk especially the children keen to greet.

A small town followed which is a jumble of houses from of all sizes. Lots of stalls sellling consumables. A bridge followed over a litter strewn river and a shanty settlement revealing stark poverty. All afternoon I had enjoyed a quieter road through the countryside on the way to ..... which I had thought was to be a sizeable town but turned out to be a hamlet really. One disturbing sight had been the obvious lack of concern about litter which is often an eye sore which much fly tipping evident. Then when I was into Albania at first the area appeared cleaner untill I reached the first settlement of size an in particullar, the river I crossed was ver dissapointing. There appear to be no garbage services for these people who live alongside their own squalor.

There is clearly a massive visible gap here in Albania between those that have wealth and not.

I carried on after enquiring about a room and have reached a large town alonside a river with an unbelievable bridge leading across. It can only take traffic in one direction at a time and is laid with timber planks, many of which are warn, rotting and bowed. The river is wide at least 100m or more. I had at first been directed towards a modern Hotel on the east side ie before crossing, built up on a hill behing a church. Approaching along a small road with washed clothing hanging on fences and small shacks up against the hill with litter everywhere. They showed me to a room but was beyond my budget now set at 10 euros. I looked about a bit and have found a small resturant/motel which has a basic room with light and typically a tele that does not work. I will try to get a coffee in compensation in the morning. Have been of to do some grub shopping after changing 10 euros for some local currency. Could not find any larger stores but found one for
sardines, bread rolls, fruit juice, cheese and a/couple of beers.

Weather through Monte.. Has been quite wet and today no exception. Impressions overall are of stunning scenery mostly friendly folk, street wise dogs never seen on leads or accompanied by their owners. Most annoying for a cyclist though has been the constant hooting from motorists often as they are passing. They also hhot at each other a gret deal. I reckon you could cause a national deptession if all their hooters were removed. I have seen very few cyclists about in Montenegro and a large number of motorists who seem to think that hooting at cyclists helps in some way. Very annoying, often frightening and inclined to encourage swearing. If only thet knew how unnecessary and upsetting it is. One or two lorries appeared to be darnright dangerous with their hooting and passing by dangerously and needlessly to close. Another noticable fact is that if you have ever stopped to wonder what happens to all the old VW golfs in the world, well theu never die,
but find themselves all driving about Montenegro. someone told me the population here is around 650000 but there seems tii be as many vw golfs.

Before leaving Petrovas na Moru where I stayed last night, I stopped at a roadside cafe to shelter from some driving rain and to adjust my brakes. I'll offer a good reward for anyone who can encourage a smile from the blonde lady who runs the place. Its on the right before you reach tge main road, I have rarely met such a sullen individual. Oh well, a cup of luke warm tea and a boiled egg later I reluctantly parted with
1.60 euros before continuing.

A lot of climbing followed today with regular bouts of rain. I reached a town and stopped for a very good value hamburger at 1.30 and at least equivalent to 5 Mac d's burgers back in rip off Britain.

Then as one heads out of town, there is a sign for Sukobin and the small road doubles back very steeply. This rd leads up into the hills inland winding its way through small settlements with lots of mountain streams and gardens full of citrus fruits.
Got going this morning Sat 16th at about 0900hrs, rained all night and persisted. Got small glimpse of sunshine just before entering hotel europa, ontrastingly posh compared to the chaotic but slow moving shambles outside. Saw a very sad looking horse earlier just standing in the road in a daze. Nobody seemed to rake any notice of it whilst just passing around. Quite a lot of cyclists in the city with helmetless moped riders, one carrying a lady who adopted side saddle, it being more ladylike/dignant I suppose. Few people can speak English here with most having Italian as an alternative. Lots of little DIY businesses and driving school cars mostly very old large Mercedes or Audi.
I will now head towards Puke' in the direction of Kosovo.
All for now, its nearly 1200hrs and + must get going.

2nd day in Monte...

First impression of Montenegro was rustic. I noticed rather more older vehicles and it appeared even less populated. As you descend from the border and reach sea level, there is a little store named after a lady. There were a number of businesses I had noticed during the day connected with ladies names for example Kate's Camping and others. Seems like the ladies around here are the entrepreneurs. Then there is a sign on the right just before some football fields advertising rooms. I called in and found a room offered at €10. Back in Euros now after spending all the Kuna I had bar 25 which I managed to swap for 3 euros at the border from a fella heading into Croatia.

I went to get some grub from quite a large SM about 2kms further on the lhs. Later returned and asked cheekilly if she would take 8 euros which she did. Then was happy to cook up some pasta for me to which I added some fish, tomato and onion.
There was an Albanian couple in the next room who took of at 0430 next morning and then the rooster had a good session so eventually managed to get back to sleep for a bit. Got away at 0900 and found 3 oranges left for me by the bike. Very kind lady indeed and although the decor was 50's, it was comfy and pleasant surroundings.
Once on my way I took a turn towards the beach and found it in a shambles with litter strewn everywhere. Seems I was on the edge of the resort since it seemed to get tidier as I approached the town proper. I stopped at an estate combined traval agents and am advised that land is between 1 an 2000 euros per M squared and am struggling to remember completed property rate she mentioned but it sounded suprisingly dear. Later I saw quite a large house needing a new roof and most likely a complete refit. It was alongside the sea which looks more like a lake in these parts and the neighbour thought it was being marketed for 400 000 euros. Crazy I thought.

Later just after having some lunch on a well positioned bench overlooking the sea with wild mountain backdrop, I came to the village of Perast. I got chatting to a joung lady (Darnito) who lives in the village. She says its the best place in Monte.. and is clearly very enthusiastic about the pretty town overlooking two tiny Islands which appear to be floating holding a church each. One is visited by travellers and the other, whilst has a grave yard, is now a private dwelling. The blue domed building on one apparently housed a lady who waited for many years for her lover, a sailor who never returned. She is said to have made a tapestry with her own hair which can be seen. To get across the water, one hires a little motorboat as ferry at 4 euros return. I gleaned all of this while chatting with Darnito who was fishing for her expectant cat Tigo who looked ver ywell fed indeed. I watched as Darnito landed a little fish much to Tigo's delight. She pounced
smartly onto this little fish and made short work of it. Seems that was around the tenth caught and its a daily routine. A little while later a joung fellow arrived in the ferry boat with small Tomos outboard engine. He was Darnito's boyfriend who has been living in London FOR 7 years and now studying fine art. They are to drive to London shortly for a 3 month stay so don'r know how Tigo will cope. Back to tinned food I guess.

I reached the town of Kotor later where the MSC cruise ship Opera out of Venice, I had earlier seen approacching port and whose fog horn I had announced her arrrival. Kotor has had lots of different rulers over the centry's and has been invaded many times. High above the walled town, there are fortifications which can be visited by those with the energy. I got up in about 30 minutes of steep climbing. Great view from above making the ship look quite tiny compared to how she had loomed from below. On the way down I met with Renata from Brazil and her ship mate Paojoimno. They were enjoying some shore leave (burning some calories to absorb the plentiful food aboard, pizza being a favourate apparently) from their 8 or 10 hour shifts looking after the mostly elderly passengers cruising.

Weather this afternoon has been a bit wet so I pedalled of once again feeling rather damp and started to look for another room. I arrived at the oposite side of the bay fro Kotor and have found a large apartment which the lady here with her two joung adult sons have let me have for €10. So here I am again well pastared thumbing away and looking forward to the road again tonorrow for what it will bring. Expecting more wet weather according to the lady in a nearby store. Oh well, one of these days I may find a place to pitch my tent again.
Caio for now.
S.

Seas azure ans islands of green

Friday Oct 8, 1400glhrs.
Now on bumpy train which travels mostly thru tunnels so as expected, only get glimpses of the sea now and again. Goodness gracious me, just been a panic as I'd arrived for a change of trains and happily have now boarded the next one which will head NE I think to Parma. Will have to watch the times more carefully else I'll end up working as a mafia slave down in Scicily somewhere. Next stage about 2 hours so can relax a little. All I can say about La Spezia is that there is a McD's on platform one which is good for a leak and the lift probably is too small to hoick a bicycle. Struggling a bit up and down the stairs. Lifting the weight is the difficult bit at present, my legs are up to the job but arms and back not quite so.
The Hostel at Levanto is the coolest place, One can come and go regardless with free wifi and bathroom for a shave etc, There was time for a quick shop this morning, a scout about for mislaid sunglasses once again. They'll either surface from my pack somewhere or are gonners. The lovely Dutch lady at the hostel gave me another left-behind pair which although probably more fashionable than mine, are darker and so not as suitable for cycling. Oh well com si com su, (sp?)

Also had time to chill out by the beach crunching a couple of carrots and another bottle of Italian beer for lunch.

I cycled out of town into higher ground last evening to find an alternative place to stay, Another night filled with church bells would have driven me nuts.
Found a B&B but he wanted min €30 though he offered a patch of grass next to a caravan gratis so gratefully accepted. Rather damp from the due this morning but the only sound I heard was that of the stream running by. Very pleasant.

So apart from the local commuting and the 2 hour hill walk yesterday, life has been taken relatively easy these last couple of days and if all goes to plan, my next effort full spell on the bike will be in Croatia. I have been given another map this morning from an American fella Ryan I have met who is nearing the end of a two month journey around Europe. Not sure if I mentioned, but he had some bike pannier bags stolen somewhere in Germany so decided to store the bike and has been going on foot and train. He now has to return to Germany foe his flight home collecting the bike on route. Map is whole of Europe and large scale so not ideal for cycling but as good as I have at present. Sometimes I prefer to just steer by compass, following my nose, but rivers without bridges have a habit of turning up. We'll see.
FOt the record, it was Greg from France who tore his map in half for me a few days back now. I thought I'd mislaid his link but have it now so will be in touch again with him hopefully.

Next connection now sorted but had to cross platforms down and up the stairs again. Now in double decker train cruising at 160km/h.
First part of my journey was very hilly with loads of tunnels. Now like a pancake and flying along. Had thought about restarting train journey tomorrow again perhaps some way down the line but a real hasske lumping it up and down at the stations so thought to get it over with. I sat next to an Italian lady who spoke no English earlier so I had a go at using the Nokia dictinary to practise some Iti and to ask her some stuff. Bit of a drag at one word a time but managed to string a couple of phrases together, then altered target language and handed her my phone for her to have a go. We muddled thru but it was quite limiting but funny. Next thing, there were 3 others having a go. Her name is Francesca and she wrote the following in my diary.
Buon Viaggio ti ammiro per per il coraggio. Full marks for translation to simon.wales@talk21.com please.
So I will be in Ancona at 2032hrs and will make my way to the port to enquire about sailings from there asap. May still head down the east coast as only pricked the surface of Italy thus far.
Well now, its 1500hrs Monday 11Th October. The train and therefore I arrived late at Ancuna around 9pm. A taxi driver pointed the port direction and after some wrong turns, I found the port ticket office with just one of the ship's offices open. The young lady at the Blue Line desk was very helpful, suggesting that the difference between a ship to Croatia and one to Greece was 46 to 60 euros so may be better to avoid a longer perhaps wilder trip and wait for a boat to Greece the following morning. I thought about it and decided that Wild Croatia sounded good and spending the night at the port was bad. The Split ferry was running late and should have left but was to leave in around half an hour. So mild rush especially when the computer refused 'said no' to issue a ticket. Said lovely joung lady was though able to provide me with a typed letter referring me with an explanation. So armed, I finally made my way onboard ticketless. There I met with
Frederick, a photographer from Sweden who was astride a 2002, I think BMW FS 650 I believe and had been travelling a long while at around 500kms per day. He had intended riding south along from Morocco then east for a sub Saharan crossing but his bike broke down with a fuel pump problem and so to avoid more expense by importing the part into Morocco, he returned to Spain with bike in tow under alternative steam which was the more economic option. Such is the over sophistication of the modern motorcycle. Frederick concludes to have an older fixable bike to be the bettter option. He was also planning to head south into Syria and Jordon ... For the winter. Only yours truly is set on keeping East. We'll see.
Frederick and I had a good chin wag and then decided to try and organise a cabin to share. Alas, it was too kate and the computer said no again so Frederick crashed out in the casino bar with loud music and ear plugs while I found a quiter spot where others had stretched out on the carpet togeher with a couple of large dogs. I tried to go dow to get my sleeping bag, but all was locked so at least my mat helped. Through the night my knees were cold as I had still hust my cycling shorts so although I was tenpted to nick one of the dog's blankets, I made do placing the mat's bag across my knees. I was up early to watch as we approched the port of Split.

Ever keen to get going, I decided to head out of town directly and regretted this after as 3 others I met all said Split was a great town to see and spend time at.

ALL I can report about Split, is that there is a Lidl store on the way out and its hilly straight away. I found a tiny road running up from the sea with holiday homes mixed with market gardens now being worked instead of concentrating on the summer tourists. After a while, I had to climb again to join the main rd heading east towards Dubrovnik. First impression cycling was one of anxiety as the road was a very busy dual carriage way with no hard shoulder or cyclist provision. I swooped down the straight road almost as fast as the traffic and then climbed to find that the road became a lot quieter and nore relaxing.
The scenery along the coast is quite stunning with a sheer rocky steep mountain view to the left and a glistening lake type sea and Islands to the right. It really is a beautiful coast line. I noticed the change from Italy France and Spain immediately. Less populated, still clearly tourist bent with every other builiding offering rooms to stay, Auto Camps and resturants. But what struck me as markedly different was the sailing boat and cruiser marinas had vanished to be replaced by natural bays forming small harbours for small fishing boats or working boats to carry tourist passengers along the coast.

Later in the morning I met Lance who has been cycling for several months having followed the European coast line having left London for Calais, then turned right and has been all the way, approching now 14000 kms with Istanbul his target after following the Greek coastline. I caught him along the road and got chatting to find that he had spent a couple of nights in Split and was now being accompanied by possibly a splitting headache from a knees up the night before. Had he not been feeling a little delicate, I probably would not have caught him as he is a steady climber once he gets going. He and shared a room at Ingrane that evening and cooked up a good meal of fresh pasta with fish and a good chille sause. I drank most of the beer though as Lance clearly does not believe in the hair of the dog.
In the morning after snooring at each other a bit, I buzzed of at breakneck speed only to be overhauled once Lance warmed up, tgen it was a puff ti keep up. Later we came across the Swiss couple from Zurich who we had seen the day before. They are also heading for the middle east for winter.

Lance and I parted company as he trundled ahead, though once ovee a river valley with its following climb, I was surprised to see him once again ascending behind me. He was set in reaching Dubrivnis yesterday evening so pressed ahead once more. I reached aroind 90kms and decided to stop at a welcoming lookin Auto park. Nobody was about so I settled down and indulged in some delicious figs and apples, Pomegranites were quite bitter though. There was a puppy barking about towing a length of chain and his masters with 3 chidren arrived later. I introduced myself to the lady of the house who explained that they were closed for the season but I could stay gratis which I thankfully did. Pitched my tent and enjoyed an evening with some good grub and homemade red wine. Got away at 830 this morning and stopped briefly at Slano where I visited the school and introduced myself to the IT master Romano, who kindly burned my photos onto a cd for me as I have asked
them to please use any of those of interest along with my ongoing blog diary. The heat is now on though so I will have to cut the waffle and write some hopefully entertaining and educational content going forward.
Before leaving Slano, I met with Slaven in his tourist office. He and I had a good chat. He explained something about the war here with the Serbs several years ago now. I think he said that it wasnow 19 years ago on the 4tg of this month when the Serbs began their 6 month occupation of the area. I am now interested in learning more about it since the local population had a tough time while the Serbs apparently moved in taking what they wanted and burning many homes.

I am now in Dubrovnik, having found a small apartment at less than the hostel rate so happily under a solid roof again since the weather has been a bit wet. Earlier, I spotted another fine looking yacht registered in Gibralter, called Binziyad or Binyiyad. I enquired about her plans and she with her crew of 4 are heading to Athens tomorrow, about a 3 day trip. Unfortunately they do not have room for this vagabond and his bike explaining that the skipper is not the owner and insurance issues. Oh well. I gather the home port for this boat is mostly Palma like many others I have come across.

All for now, my thumbs are numb.

A walk in Italian sunshine

Its Thu 6th Oct and I am sitting on the beach at Monterosso. I have walked the hill trail which leads up and down the mountain along the coast from Levanto where I stayed last night. I think Monterosso is the first of the 5 lands, the other 4 being along the coast in and easterly direction. I can see them with binoculors from where I am sitting. I have just had a swim in tge sea and a beach shower . Water still about 20 degrees I reckon. I just jumped in with my cyccling gear on and rung it out once showered. Now evaporating nicely in the warm sunshine. Must be about 25 degrees. Very bright. The walking trail was great and real change to be off the bike for once. It took me just on two hours which is quicker than the 3 that + had been advised back at the Hostel. I have transformed these last weeks into a bit of a mountain goat and overtook all that I came across. Very steep at times with breathtaking views. There is a small mountain retreat which
advertises drinks, particularly local wine on route. I thought about it but refrained as I'm having to manage on just deck shoes and imagined myself struggling in a giddy state. Had a bottle of Moretti beer instead when I arrrived along with some lunch consisting of a carrot, tomatoe, roll and biscuits.

Expect this place is really heaving in the summer season and the trail rather too busy. Not sure, but now seems an idillic time to travel here.

Getting a liking for Moretti which varies from €1.15 to €4 depending where you get it. Last night, a cafe had it for 3.50 so + wondered on to find another at 4, where + was directed to yet another store open late selling cold meats and all sorts. There it was €1.15 for 66cl bottle which is a good pint or just a bit more perhaps so I ordered some delicious olives to go with it.

A bit of a bither in this part of the wirld is the funny hours they keep. Often shutting before noon or 1 and only opening again at 4pm typically. Supermarkets included. Dunno what they do with themselves. The Hostel at Levanto is a comparatively cheap place to stay at €19 including breakfast where you can hog a little if you choose. The coffee machine sign asks that yiu have just one but nobody seems to count. I will possibly stay another night although they may be full as this morning at 11, they had only 3 beds left. One thing though, if you stay there or near, I wiuld recommend ear plugs as the local church bells toll every 15 minutes throughout the night, the munutes chiming a different tone so that you are reminded of the time every 15 minutes. Crazy.
There is also a camp site so I'may sray there instead if I do not move off before this evening. Expect I,ll get the train back to Levanto later, I believe it runs all the way along the coast in these parts. Loads of tunnels though so scenery in bits probably.
I met another Canadian (French)traveller this morning. Sylvian now on foot, having rented a car and trained. He is a graphic designer who has been travelling in Tuscany and says that many more vines await me there which is one thing I have missed since approaching and travelling along the coast here in Italy so far. Other cyclists have commented about good figs inland a bit so here's hoping.
3pm now so better get going and find out about the choo choo.
So managed to jump on a train straight away and mad enquiry for onward travel to Ancona which is some 435km away to the east coast via Bologna. That would take me about 5 or 6 days in this hilly terrain so I might cheat for a while and save some time and money. Its about €30 for the fare and I would otherwise spend 70.
I will study the maps and terrain and decide by tomorrow the next move.
Bye now.

FW: Re: Hello traveller

----Forwarded Message---

Hi Hills,

Tanks for you email.

Last night I pitched my tent on an olive terrace against a steep hill and walked rather a long way into the nearest tiwn for a beer and then had another to keep me conpany on the way back. Had permission from one of the residents this time so not bothered about the caberinaro or whatever theyre called.

I am staying this evening in a hostel at Levanto which is at the beginning of an area referred to as the cinque terre that some folks I have met were raving about so have descended some monster hills mountains to take a look. Only probkem is that what goes down .....

Its been a bit of a tough terrain today, the hills being very steep with severe twist downs which are scary since the brakes are not as adequate as I'd like so now thought I'd relax and destress under a roof a little and get some smalls washed, shop and visit the bank etc.

Stunning scenery everywhere. I met a young French cyclist coming from wher I'm heading and his front brake was missing altogether so heaven knows how he is managing. He kindly passed on half of his Italian map so added to my photocopies which get tatty very quickly.

Also met with an organised cycling group from the States who have been touring on a planned route with support van, rest days and no luggage to heave about. Much more civilised way of touring but only for two weeks.

I have been searching for something to read and have a good choice of books here including one flew over the cuckoos nest which I may decide to take with me.

Hope your course of study goes well. How's the travelling going your side of the family?
Regards to David please.

Be seein ya,

S.

Mud Galore

Its 2100 hrs Monday 4th October. Today the weather has been rather unfriendly with gale force winds, and at times driving rain, causing floods and land slides in the area we are in. Only good thing has been the temps which have held up otherwise things would have been extremely miserable. Had to pack the tents up earlier wet which is a pain as they are heavier and then subsequently damp for next use.

We only managed to get going again at around 2pm and have covered only 33 kms having sheltered at a few locarions. We are about 10kms north of Serona and having climbed a hill found a hotel and pizza resturant. They tried to charge €65 but we found out about another hotel about 3kms further on which would charge €50 so were able to haggle down to this amount which has rather upset my €10 per day budget as accomodation costs for these last 2 days will amount to €33. So far in the 3 weeks by tomorrow the road, I will have spent €46 on accomodation for just 3 of the 21 days. My average spend, including accom. Ferry and bike tyre is €13.60 per day so not far of £10 per day. Fred and I are sharing a room and enjoying the dry warmth and CNN on the tele. Fred treated me to a Pizza earlier and we have the room until 11am tomorrow. Hopefully, if the weather moderates we should make Genova tomorrow and will probably part company there. I need to
head east more and Fred will be heading North East towards Slovinia where he has arranged to met with a friend for a few days.

I have only €15 left and will need to change some Stirling tomorrow or next day at latest.

Hi Fred,
I was trundling along and had kicked up a couple of inclines so waited a while. When you did not turn up, I turned back for about 3kms and alas did not see you anywhere.

I trust all is well and that you had simply turned off left somewhere on route.

Thank you so much for your good company these last several days. I shall miss your good nature and genuine enthusiasm for your goal ahead. Take care and do let me know how you are fairing.

I have stopped at a nice hotel where an even nicer young receptionist has allowed me wifi access gratia.

I have had a massive hill to climb where there was a great view back to the city. Genova centre was like a war had prevailed with piled up mud and damaged cars littering the streets.
Lots of police trying to deal with the impatient motorists and bulldozers doing there best to clear up. Much flooding yesterday that must have made a spetacular if frightening experience for those who must have been there. It could so easily have been us as well I guess.

It is now 1700 hrs and La Spezia is still about 70kms off. I am at Hotel Canali in Rappallo.

Cheerio for now and all the very best going forward. Ps. I owe you a Pizza sometime!

S.

Italia

So here I am in Italy. In San Remo having spent the night on the shoreline in front of a row of Motorhomes.
In McD's at present but the Italian govt. have otherwise rules about using wifi and one has to purchase a local sim which is the registered to an ID.
Have had another warm meal last night, compliments of Fred's stove. He is from from Canada and I have linked up with him yeterday before entering Italy as we are on a similar journey, his destination being Singapore to work as a volunteer at an orphanage but intends heading for the middle east over winter months having more time on his hands.
Met on the rd a Pilgrim from SA who was half way along a 1700 km journey starting in Rome and heading on foot in the oposite direction.

Good to be in Italy as it feels like having made some progress though it depends on which map one looks at.
Have come across many would be Rossi characters astride Vespas and all sorts of scooters.

We stopped at Monaco yesterday and briefly visited the Palace from where there is a good view across the bay with its enormous boats, enticing swimming pool and Grand Prix tunnel which we rode through. Then about Ten kms to Menton and another hilly ten before another defunct boarder post and onto Italy with its several tunnels before reaching San Rimo last night.

Pitched, ate, then strolled off to find a caf where we had a beer and some crisps.

Next city Genoa with several towns to pass through. Expecting some stenuous terrain.
Cuao for now.

I may join Fred across top end of Italy and then on to Slovinia approching Greece from that direction which would avoid having to head north while in Greece.

Its now early Sunday morning 3rd October, not long after auto sprinkler time. We have found another paradise of a pitch which appears to be at one end of an exclusive marina complex about 15 kms east on San Rimo. So we are on a velvet patch of lawn with date palms right next to a private beach with the sound of gently lapping waves on the shore. Fred, a CA who has been living in Bermuda, said how similar the setting is here.

Getting used to some hot meals, as he has a fancy petrol based cooker so last night dined on pasta with ollives, veg, onions, and salmon. Excellently washed with a couple of beers, followed by chocolate moose once again.

We spent several hours in the San Remo town square yesterday trying to sort out the net logging procedures for using wifi here in Italy. One has to provide ID to use cafe computers and to use wifi, you have to purchase an Italian sim with id. Then in theory, you are sent a text with a login password for wifi connections we think. Not too sure yet cause sim only activates in 12 to 24 hours, so hopefully will be sorted soon. Fred has bought a sim for €15 includes €10 credit. He has no cell phone so I have the sim but he will first use logon and hopefully I can use same one otherwise I may have to buy a sim too. Blasted Ities, to many mafia cruising around here obviously.

Other reason for stopping in town most of yesterday, was me in a panic.The cafe owner had taken my driving licence and said he would return it after session, but didn't which I discovered while eating an ice cream later, but after Edo the Interet cafe chap had shut up shop. When he had taken my id I noticed he had a pile of id docs on his desk so remember being concerned about getting mine straight back. Then while using the computer to download some photos via email to Julie, I discovered that I had left my camera cable in McD's across the square, so leapt up to go and happily retrieve the same. Returning then to complete task of replying to some emails etc. I must have forgotten about my id. Now being a Saturday according the the hours open business sign on his window, next opening was to be monday morning, but the guys in the kebab shop next door said he would be back at 1600hrs. So we waited for a couple of hours yacking and drinking Coke. But alas,
no Edo. I left a letter for him to please post my id on to a Vodafone store in Pisa...
Last night when de-cladding to go and have a wash in the drink, what did I discover?
Blasted license was in one of the rear pockets of my cycling top. I have owned up to Fred and appologised since after that we Have only covered about 15 kms at most yesterday when it should have been rather more than that. Fred had suggeted returning to the pitch we had the Night before but I suggested a recce further on and to return if necessary. well now glad for having done so since we found a good food store to stock up and as good a pitch as any where we are now.
I quite like the idea of approaching Greese from Italy's opposite eastern shore, the west shore of Caspian sea I think. If we were to ride all the way across Italy's northern shoreline, we'd enter Slovenia. But may decide to get ferry across about 100kms of Caspian Sea heading for Croatia Bosnia and others I think for Northern Greece, then hang a left towards Istanbul. Still looks daunting as the more I think about it the larger the journey looms and know that I have barely scratched the surface yet but will have been going 3 weeks next Tuesday. I think my distance travelled has topped 1000 kms now and Fred he knows has past 3000 from Ireland to here. He has a trip computer whereas I can only estimate with maps and course.
Dead reckoning I am, like a good sailor of old. I suggested to Fred that if he had some money to spare, we could buy a boat and sail across the med and flog it on the other side. Not that much money he replied. He's got a fancy bike though fitted with Deore stuff' made in Holland and designed for touring. He has quite nobbly tires though and his bike is heavier than mine by I think about 5 kgs. I estimate my load to be between 45 and 50 kgs.

My bike seems to be holding out ok so far but my brake blocks will need changing soon and I'm just praying about the rest. It seems so heavy especially on the back wheel and I often wonder if the wheel etc is up to the task especially on rougher terrain which must still be heading my way. Oh well, the worst I supppose would be to be transformed into a shanks pony pilgrim. I'd have to try and trade in the bike for a rucksac. Time now 6am so will stir a while.
Now Monday 4th Oct 0930hrs
Had good ride yesterday, kept to coast or else it would be far harder since there are many very helpful tunnels one of which was very long and exclusively for cyclists or walkers, having been a road before most likely. Cycle paths are many too which is great. Here in Italy, a good proportion of the car drivers and even scooter riders tend to be impatient with cyclists who are riding abreast. We like to do this at times when having a chat. When we are abreast on the road, we take up less space than a horse and cart or a slow moving tractor but for some reason these other road users often in smaller vehicles cannot appreciate this and regularly hoot and gesture for us to adopt single file which can actually make us more of a an obstacle to pass especially if we are meters apart and the road is narrow. Since some will pass too closely for comfort and chance overtaking both of us at once.
Yesterday a car driver hooted then overtook and cut across in front of me having slowed on purpose to make his point in a dangerous manner. Would he have done this to a slow moving vehicle? Most likely not, its about what they believe to be correct and are the forceful about it.
So apart from the stressed drivers, the route yesterday was pleasant and very scenic. Along the way, we stopped at cafe/bar and enjoyed a bottle of Italian beer while the GP motorcycle race in Japan was on the tele.
Then onwards, we covered 72km yesterday which is quite good given the terrain and the opposing breeze which kept against us all day.
In the evening we stopped soon after Noli, just before Spotorno, to set up camp on a raised grassy Island just off the road with some tree and shrub cover. Many mozzies but good soft ground if a little noisy from the road traffic. Tents up and another delicious pasta meal, this time with Mackeral in a mustard sause and chopped chorizo (sausage). During our meal, I heard Fred say Oh no! We were being visited by the Italian Plod who explained that it was not lawful and that we were to seek a campsite or face a stiff fine. Id's taken and radioed thru to HQ cleared, we finished our meal and began to re-pack and down tent while darkness arrived. We cycled into the edge of the town and found a campsite offering harder ground, but showers and a loaned rubber hammer helped to pitch once again, for €8 each. Then after a shower we ventured into town on foot and had a couple of beers in a pIzza cafe.

This morning and during the night, it has been raining. Very hard at times and tents are now surrounded by large puddles. Now 1025hrs. Now one hour later and the rain persists but not quite so heavily though may be set for the whole day. There is a caravan with a porch next to our tents so have been able to sit down in the dry and I've laid out damp clothing which will hopefully dry before packing up and moving on. Bikes are also now under shelter and have lubricated chain and cogs. Eager to get going really but tent will be sopping and thus heavier.

I think maybe Italy has more issues with illegal travellers/immigrants than say France or Spain. I asked the policeman what the problem/s were and he mentioned folks roaming around from Africa and Eastern Europe were the cause of security problems. In France, some people had warned about theft, quoting Arabic and Algerian
races as potential thieving culprits. But in neither France nor Spain were there any internet access hassles like we have found in Italy. The chap in the Internet cafe' appeared quite frustrated when we asked him about it, saying that Italy was very behind other European countries in its net facilities. I think that he is unable to privide WIFI for regulation reasons.

So here I am perched in a porch dodging the rain, waiting to get going again. One of these days I might update my log, if only I can get around the Italian bureaucracy fog.