Monday 4 October 2010

Italia

So here I am in Italy. In San Remo having spent the night on the shoreline in front of a row of Motorhomes.
In McD's at present but the Italian govt. have otherwise rules about using wifi and one has to purchase a local sim which is the registered to an ID.
Have had another warm meal last night, compliments of Fred's stove. He is from from Canada and I have linked up with him yeterday before entering Italy as we are on a similar journey, his destination being Singapore to work as a volunteer at an orphanage but intends heading for the middle east over winter months having more time on his hands.
Met on the rd a Pilgrim from SA who was half way along a 1700 km journey starting in Rome and heading on foot in the oposite direction.

Good to be in Italy as it feels like having made some progress though it depends on which map one looks at.
Have come across many would be Rossi characters astride Vespas and all sorts of scooters.

We stopped at Monaco yesterday and briefly visited the Palace from where there is a good view across the bay with its enormous boats, enticing swimming pool and Grand Prix tunnel which we rode through. Then about Ten kms to Menton and another hilly ten before another defunct boarder post and onto Italy with its several tunnels before reaching San Rimo last night.

Pitched, ate, then strolled off to find a caf where we had a beer and some crisps.

Next city Genoa with several towns to pass through. Expecting some stenuous terrain.
Cuao for now.

I may join Fred across top end of Italy and then on to Slovinia approching Greece from that direction which would avoid having to head north while in Greece.

Its now early Sunday morning 3rd October, not long after auto sprinkler time. We have found another paradise of a pitch which appears to be at one end of an exclusive marina complex about 15 kms east on San Rimo. So we are on a velvet patch of lawn with date palms right next to a private beach with the sound of gently lapping waves on the shore. Fred, a CA who has been living in Bermuda, said how similar the setting is here.

Getting used to some hot meals, as he has a fancy petrol based cooker so last night dined on pasta with ollives, veg, onions, and salmon. Excellently washed with a couple of beers, followed by chocolate moose once again.

We spent several hours in the San Remo town square yesterday trying to sort out the net logging procedures for using wifi here in Italy. One has to provide ID to use cafe computers and to use wifi, you have to purchase an Italian sim with id. Then in theory, you are sent a text with a login password for wifi connections we think. Not too sure yet cause sim only activates in 12 to 24 hours, so hopefully will be sorted soon. Fred has bought a sim for €15 includes €10 credit. He has no cell phone so I have the sim but he will first use logon and hopefully I can use same one otherwise I may have to buy a sim too. Blasted Ities, to many mafia cruising around here obviously.

Other reason for stopping in town most of yesterday, was me in a panic.The cafe owner had taken my driving licence and said he would return it after session, but didn't which I discovered while eating an ice cream later, but after Edo the Interet cafe chap had shut up shop. When he had taken my id I noticed he had a pile of id docs on his desk so remember being concerned about getting mine straight back. Then while using the computer to download some photos via email to Julie, I discovered that I had left my camera cable in McD's across the square, so leapt up to go and happily retrieve the same. Returning then to complete task of replying to some emails etc. I must have forgotten about my id. Now being a Saturday according the the hours open business sign on his window, next opening was to be monday morning, but the guys in the kebab shop next door said he would be back at 1600hrs. So we waited for a couple of hours yacking and drinking Coke. But alas,
no Edo. I left a letter for him to please post my id on to a Vodafone store in Pisa...
Last night when de-cladding to go and have a wash in the drink, what did I discover?
Blasted license was in one of the rear pockets of my cycling top. I have owned up to Fred and appologised since after that we Have only covered about 15 kms at most yesterday when it should have been rather more than that. Fred had suggeted returning to the pitch we had the Night before but I suggested a recce further on and to return if necessary. well now glad for having done so since we found a good food store to stock up and as good a pitch as any where we are now.
I quite like the idea of approaching Greese from Italy's opposite eastern shore, the west shore of Caspian sea I think. If we were to ride all the way across Italy's northern shoreline, we'd enter Slovenia. But may decide to get ferry across about 100kms of Caspian Sea heading for Croatia Bosnia and others I think for Northern Greece, then hang a left towards Istanbul. Still looks daunting as the more I think about it the larger the journey looms and know that I have barely scratched the surface yet but will have been going 3 weeks next Tuesday. I think my distance travelled has topped 1000 kms now and Fred he knows has past 3000 from Ireland to here. He has a trip computer whereas I can only estimate with maps and course.
Dead reckoning I am, like a good sailor of old. I suggested to Fred that if he had some money to spare, we could buy a boat and sail across the med and flog it on the other side. Not that much money he replied. He's got a fancy bike though fitted with Deore stuff' made in Holland and designed for touring. He has quite nobbly tires though and his bike is heavier than mine by I think about 5 kgs. I estimate my load to be between 45 and 50 kgs.

My bike seems to be holding out ok so far but my brake blocks will need changing soon and I'm just praying about the rest. It seems so heavy especially on the back wheel and I often wonder if the wheel etc is up to the task especially on rougher terrain which must still be heading my way. Oh well, the worst I supppose would be to be transformed into a shanks pony pilgrim. I'd have to try and trade in the bike for a rucksac. Time now 6am so will stir a while.
Now Monday 4th Oct 0930hrs
Had good ride yesterday, kept to coast or else it would be far harder since there are many very helpful tunnels one of which was very long and exclusively for cyclists or walkers, having been a road before most likely. Cycle paths are many too which is great. Here in Italy, a good proportion of the car drivers and even scooter riders tend to be impatient with cyclists who are riding abreast. We like to do this at times when having a chat. When we are abreast on the road, we take up less space than a horse and cart or a slow moving tractor but for some reason these other road users often in smaller vehicles cannot appreciate this and regularly hoot and gesture for us to adopt single file which can actually make us more of a an obstacle to pass especially if we are meters apart and the road is narrow. Since some will pass too closely for comfort and chance overtaking both of us at once.
Yesterday a car driver hooted then overtook and cut across in front of me having slowed on purpose to make his point in a dangerous manner. Would he have done this to a slow moving vehicle? Most likely not, its about what they believe to be correct and are the forceful about it.
So apart from the stressed drivers, the route yesterday was pleasant and very scenic. Along the way, we stopped at cafe/bar and enjoyed a bottle of Italian beer while the GP motorcycle race in Japan was on the tele.
Then onwards, we covered 72km yesterday which is quite good given the terrain and the opposing breeze which kept against us all day.
In the evening we stopped soon after Noli, just before Spotorno, to set up camp on a raised grassy Island just off the road with some tree and shrub cover. Many mozzies but good soft ground if a little noisy from the road traffic. Tents up and another delicious pasta meal, this time with Mackeral in a mustard sause and chopped chorizo (sausage). During our meal, I heard Fred say Oh no! We were being visited by the Italian Plod who explained that it was not lawful and that we were to seek a campsite or face a stiff fine. Id's taken and radioed thru to HQ cleared, we finished our meal and began to re-pack and down tent while darkness arrived. We cycled into the edge of the town and found a campsite offering harder ground, but showers and a loaned rubber hammer helped to pitch once again, for €8 each. Then after a shower we ventured into town on foot and had a couple of beers in a pIzza cafe.

This morning and during the night, it has been raining. Very hard at times and tents are now surrounded by large puddles. Now 1025hrs. Now one hour later and the rain persists but not quite so heavily though may be set for the whole day. There is a caravan with a porch next to our tents so have been able to sit down in the dry and I've laid out damp clothing which will hopefully dry before packing up and moving on. Bikes are also now under shelter and have lubricated chain and cogs. Eager to get going really but tent will be sopping and thus heavier.

I think maybe Italy has more issues with illegal travellers/immigrants than say France or Spain. I asked the policeman what the problem/s were and he mentioned folks roaming around from Africa and Eastern Europe were the cause of security problems. In France, some people had warned about theft, quoting Arabic and Algerian
races as potential thieving culprits. But in neither France nor Spain were there any internet access hassles like we have found in Italy. The chap in the Internet cafe' appeared quite frustrated when we asked him about it, saying that Italy was very behind other European countries in its net facilities. I think that he is unable to privide WIFI for regulation reasons.

So here I am perched in a porch dodging the rain, waiting to get going again. One of these days I might update my log, if only I can get around the Italian bureaucracy fog.

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