Thursday 18 November 2010

Tropical bliss with mozzies

Fri 19th Nov. I notice that the last note typed on my cell phone is dated 31 Oct. I am listening to the regular beat of waves tumbling onto a short, steep shoreline which is where the beach hut I have slept in over the last two nights. Here at Arugam bay I have reached the most southern point along the east coast before a national wildlfe park which some have said that I can cycle through and others not. Suspect latter is correct and if other tourist attractions are to be judged by, then entering the park by 4x4 guided is likely to be very expensive. Just met a couple of joung French fellows who are working for a children's charity assessing the results of support work ongoing following the tsunami some 6 years ago. One is to travel to JHB soon and then on to Kwazulu Natal. Although it is 6 years ago, many people talk about it and I saw, especially further north at Passikuda, much evidence of buildings that once stood before what must have been a
devastating experience for many. So this, my 19th day out of 30 allowed, there is still much I hope to see including hopefully some wild elephants and the moutain areas south of Kandy some of which is called little England being cooler up high and no doubt rains a lot too.
The joung French lads commented about India being really noisy and dirty, I am just hoping to find some quiter more peaceful places which I will be on the lookout for.
People here are really freindly and genuinely interested as well as very curious. My diet has been filled with lots of curry, mainly vegetable and fish with many good fruits to enjoy abundantly. Drinking King coconuts has been a favourate as well as enjoying the local Lion Lager one of which is very strong at 8.8% which is fine dillutwd with water at 50% making two normal for the price of one.
There is lots of fishing going on here and many of their fibreglass boats have been donated by charties but it seems that there are twice as many boats as needed, the results of good intentions wasted. There are also some traditional canoe types with single timber floats on one side which provide stability and are propelled with oars. The fish are landed and the local townfolk gather around to establish the highest price to be offered by auction. The fisherman or his rep will shout what sounds like Anurupar over and over which I think may mean asking price starts at 100 rupees per kilo and open to better offers. I watched this going on for a good few minutes during which time none of the 10 or so punters offered any sign of acceptance. I suppose its a waiting game and all are reluctant to start the bidding for fear of driving tge price too high.

On the way here fron the north, I pulled of the main road to rest and have a bite to eat of some fruit and ledt over bread fron breakfast I had had earlier. I came across a buiding on the beach signed as the fisherman's rest, which I passed and settled under some coconut palms nearby. Soon after a wiry fisherman approached and asked me if I wanted coconuts. I think he may have seen me peering on the ground at some fallen ones which unfortunately had been spent. Ever eager must have been my expression so he hoisted up his frock and climbed effortlessly up a seemingly impossible 90 degrees using his arms and legs to carry him all the way up in no time. I gather people here, often employ such characters to harvest their own garden trees. The price of these fine fruits has varied between 10 and 40 rupees, or 6p and 24p in English money and provide an excellent thurst quenching' energising drink followed by a pleasant eating of sweet jelly. Beats a soda
drink anyday and most contain at least 500ml.
I have stayed just once in my tent so far. Most I have paid gas been 800 and have often paid around 500 or 3 pounds. The showers are all cold but its that warm anyway, there is no need for hot water. Mostly I am able to eat well in small resturants for around 90p, that being a generous plate of local rice and a good curry with veg and fish or chicken. Beef has also been more common in the eastern Tamal areas.
I have met many local people being Budhists mostly, Tamals both Hindu and Muslims and some Chritian folk too. There is much more to write about but thumbs are tired and I must start packing for onward journey inland to the west at noon today. I have had very hot sunny weather for the last week or more and today it is overcast and cooler so hopefully easier on the bike.
Till next time.

1 comment:

  1. Hi Smon,

    You might be interested in this site. He comments on the best biking in India and echoes our idea to bike in the south. He recommends starting in Chennai (Madras) and then going around the tip up to GOA. It looks like a good description of the route and he provides some good pointers.

    http://www.mrpumpy.net/rides/9-india-south/BSA-India-1.html

    I am now in southern Turkey heading east towards the border with Syria. It's comfortably warm (about 25C) but challenging with some long climbs, but the downhills make up for it.

    It looks like I will go all the way to Jordan and then take a Cargo ship to Malaysia (long story) and arrive near Kuala Lumpur around the end of January then head north to Thailand and hopefully China. I'll be doing SE Asia from south to north.

    Keep on having a great time.

    Fred

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