Home for Christmas via Mumbai

Its 0610hrs on Christmas day and here I am back in the fridge freezer having left wonderfully warm weather back in South India.

My return trip, a long haul, started in Goa where I boarded a train at 1800hrs and arrived the following morning at Mumbai 12 hours later at 6am early where it was still dark. I then had to make my way by cycle across the city from the south to the airport some 25kms to the north.

First impression of Mumbai, was of street people, women, children old and young living under plastic lean to's or simply sprawled under blankets in the street. I have only two photos, and one is a map of Mumbai which a young lad from Denmark had shown me of the city, and the other is an early morning street scene where some shacks have been built along the road in front of other decrepit buildings. Many of the shacks though supported the typical satellite dishes often seen in contrast. It's as though the satellite tv is more important than having windows or solid walls.

It was good for traffic reasons to have had an early start to my crossing the city and guided by my compass alone, I headed in a North West direction towards the smarter areas adjacent to the sea. Before long, I found a busy bakery type restaurant and enjoyed some grub and a cup of coffee. A policeman pointed my rough map position and off I went into much more traffic by now. Many more street folks, lots of them still asleep under their blankets ignoring the growing noisy streets. They were everywhere, on the pavements and some had found refuge on wooden carts and crates.

I came to an area next to the sea dominated by large residential flats and later a park which I decided to head through. There were two platoons of young marching ladies, one in step and the other not. They must have been the runners up. It was clearly a nationalistic bunch who released Indian flag coloured balloons after the marching, athletics sports day closing ceremony. Earlier I had been stopped at the park entrance and told that my cycle had to be left on the street. On seeing motorcycles parked in the park though, I chose to ignore this apparent rule which seemed only to apply to me. Later, when nearing the northern gate, another official tried to get me to return to the first gate thus doubling my sin. Again I waltzed on and got clear of the park before too much fuss followed.

As my flight back to London was only at 0230hrs the following morning, I had the whole day to reach the airport and much time to kill. I ate a good veg curry and found a wine store for a beer while I watched a good game of cricket played two high school teams. It was a hot sunny day so I returned to the wine store for another beer and a diet coke. On dismounting, I caught my foot on the bike's cross bar and promptly fell over backwards into the road and oncoming hoard of traffic which happily had not quite reached me from their green light stampede. Foolishly, I hopped back on my feet trying to recover all dignity with a sheepish grin. A couple of motorcyclists stopped to ask what the problem was to which I replied "Gravity!"

Apart from this cycling mishap, the first of my journey as I recall, I managed to reach the airport finally after a plate of seafood noodles and stocking up on some samoosas for the long rather boring flight wait until the following morning. In the evening I decided to walk off and hunt for a beer and a bag of crisps. Fending off the many taxi touts, I walked for a couple of miles and manged to find an ice cold lager and some spicy crisps which I enjoyed whilst walking past some significant construction going on around the airport.
Thus fortified, I finally made my way into the departure area at around 2300hrs. Then the "cannot be serious bringing that bike on the plane" fun started. They insisted on wedging my bike through an x-ray machine and inevitably it got stuck, so with much tugging to and fro, luggage seperated into supplied boxes, I finally made it into the waiting lounge with only time for a pee before heading to the departure gate. It took two and a half hours to get through security and check-in. I thought Turkish airlines and Istanbul had been a challenge, but the Indians took first prize. Apparently, I had been told and now agree that they have adopted British burocracy rather well.

So onto London with dread for the weather. Unlike me, but I fell asleep and missed dinner on the plane so pleaded starvation later and managed to get some leftovers. Arrived on time and waited rather long for all the seperate bits and finally got going without being stopped by the green men channel. Blimey, -1degrees felt really alien but the absense of continuos hooting and the pound I picked up along the road made up for it. Traffic here is positively civilised, quiet and orderly unlike the noisy hooligans from whenst I came. I had to keep checking my cowboy inclinations, as I adapted to become a bit of a road demon myself, a survival necessity you'll understand.

I cycled a good route from Heathrow with gloves and woolly hat, but feet like icebergs and a growing hunger forced me into a greasy spoon for some bread and butter, a coffee,eggs, beans, chips and sausage. Not quite the bargains I have been used to but at £4.75, I could not complain.

Reached home later in the afternoon after a few more thawing coffee/tea stops along the way. Body clock completely confused though as I keep waking at 3 am and am slaughtered by 2100hrs. No wonder, with the time difference and my journey from Goa to home having taken a constant 48hrs. I need a rest.

Merry Christmas all.

I hope to recommence my travels again before long.

In the Mountains but suddenly time is short

Just had a typical Indian breakfast of 2 rice grain paps and a single but fried version made to look like a ring doughnut. This is seved with the inevitable curried/spicy vegetable based gravy and some coconut milk with onions and spices. All washed down with a glass of pre-boiled water and a bill of Rs25 or about 30 nglish pence. I have been for an early hours walk tthis morning through the hills here around the mountain town of Munnar where I have spent the night in a small but adequately comfotable enough room costing Rs200 at Safa Lodge above the Bazaar fruit market. I eaten mostly at the adjacent Hazzarth Hotel (tea room), and recommend a fish and veg curry with rice available lunch times. There are many roadside stall offering snacks, one of which had some good veg soup yesterday.

Having spent most of my time here in India so far travelling northwards along the Kerala coast, I finally decided to head inland to ascend (2.5 days) the Western Gatts , the range of mountains between Kerala and the Tamil Nadu region here in the deep south and I believe extending well to the north.

Memories of the hilly terrain in SriLanka soon surfaced but I have enjoyed better roads (not always) and weather. Many stunning views with thick jungle sounds of running water and many bird calls in between the blasted blasting road traffic driven by drivers still determined to HOOT at every opportunity. Spitting seems not to help often appearing to result in even more shrieking horns so yesterday, I tried a new approach. Easier and more effective to those approaching from ahead, (though I tried with occasional success by turning through 90 degrees for the rear hooters) I pretent to be a nursey teacher beckoning peace and quiet from the children with a forefinger to the lips and a Shhhh sound. This is definitely a more successful approach resulting in an acknowleding smile and sheepish silence for a peaceful moment of harmony in the otherwise lushous surrounds. These darn tin cocoons are noisy enough without their insistant blasts at every approaching
being, animal, vehicle or turn. There are some signs along the road, two types I have seen so far sponsored by Vodafone whitch ask travellers to prevent forrest fires and not to Litter. The latter seems to encourage ejected filth all the more, causing a fire hazard with the unsightly mess. Another sign dispays 'Tourism works for you' but should read Tourism stinks. Non of the stall holders have bins outside their premises but sweep their shop fronts in the morning and either sweep the mess aside, throw it down a hillside or burn it as I have witnessed.
Yet walk to a place not frequented by this mass of humanity and one finds true beauty, harmony and peace. You may though need to walk a long way since there are humans seemingly everywhere, a feature of, I am told , the social society of the Kerala region (unlike other Indian States) where land and housing is given to all those who have a need or desire for a home.
My plan now is to return to Cochin via bus and then on to south of Goa by train where I will cycle north through Goa spending a couple of days around there and then train onwards to Mumbai which I will try to reach by the 22nd, as my return flight to Hideous Heathrow is early morning 0200hrs on the 23rd, now only six days away. Its been an enjoyable 3.5 months and I am really now looking forward to being with family over Christmas though will have to adapt quickly to the gloomy cold weather shock. A travel bug is what I have and I will soon have to treat it by carrying on with my planned 'awheeljourney'. I am also looking forward to adding some of the many travel pictures to the diary. I have met some wonderful folks along the way and owe many letters of thanks and photos from our shared experiences.
All for now.

A dissapointing Joy

Hi Karel,

I was cycling through the town of Fort Cochi when I came across a Christmas Carol singing event at one of the many churches in the tow.. That together with other recordings i had heard streaming out of people's windows earlier in the day really made me feel like I wanted to be home for Christmas after all.

So I have decided to return to London from Mumbai on the 23rd December thus cutting short my trip in India and delaying the rest of my planned journey which I hope to continue at a later date.

All the very best and have a good season. I am sure that we will be in touch before Christmas again.

S

India

So, first impressions of India. Mixed at the moment. I have arrived at an area which apparently has the highest rate of literacy in India and has been governed and or may continue to be governed by a communist polital party. They seem not to discourage litter, or have it collected. I cycled into the city from the airport where a couple of guys who were running a the only currency exchange shop admitted that their airport rate wasn't competative and that their other premises in town provided a better rate. They suggested heading for the museum where nearby a tourist office was located where I could collect some info/maps. As I left the airport a cafe owner hailed to indicate that he would change money so not having any, I went in and changed £20 plus some SriLankan money I had which the exchange store would not have dealt in and the sterling rate, around 68 was better than the airport rate so felt was reasonable and more could wait to find alternatives
another day. I was only able to get 33% value on the SriLanakan money even though it should be around 50%. So, armed with some cash, I ventured further into the unknown. I had been given some directions which happily was to follow a single road bearing right occasionally towards/the city about 8kms away, My goal was to find the museum where a tourist office opposite was to be found. Shortly after leaving the airport perimeter, I cycled past a beach and on rounding a corner, met a large sculptured statue in stone or quite likely concrete to look like stone, of a good figured nude lady lying down n her side leaning on her elbow in a classic pose. I'd estimate the length to be 30m at least and 5m tall at the right shoulder. Impressive but somehow out of place in an otherwise almost shanty type setting with just a few old houses about and some tiny stores. I had passed some fishing boats along the beach just before and the temp was around 25 degrees at
0900hrs. I pulled off the road at a rustic 'hotel' now knowing that its the name they give to a tea room or resturant where there are no rooms or beds to be had. I enquired as to the faire and it was chicken or beef with pancake type bread. This turned out to be chicken though I had asked for beef and along with the bread and a couple of fried Indian things, the bill came to around 45 Rupees I think. I had been told that SriLanka was mostly dearer than India but so far not the case. In SriLanka I ate mostly their local curries and a good helping of rice often with 3 or 4 vegetable curries along with fish, I could be well satisfied for at most 150 Rupees, or just over £1. A meal like this is always accompanied with a jug or glass of water which tastes best after the often spicy/hot chillied flavours. All sorts of vegetables are used, my favourates being egg plant, as well as pumpkin. Sometimes an onion salad combines to make a tremendous tranche of
tastes.
The beef I ordered turned out to be chicken and the fried lumps were added to my bill. The levened bread was ok but rice for me is preferable.
I cycled into the town and after asking the way a couple of times, came across the city library where I stopped to see some maps. No cycle parking anywhere to be seen so I leant my bike against a hedge and went in. I was immediately directed to the exit again to offload my rucksac and asked to fill in a visitor book with id number. Then upstairs to the reference section where I was shown to some ancient world atlases when the roads must have been traversed only by animal drawn carts and the place names altered several times. I suspected this source to be of little use to me and the librarian shuffled through some lealets to find a tourist map of the region. I asked her if I could have this or get a photocopy but she explained that due to it being Sunday, the sabbath, it was not permitted to copy. Desperate, I asked for a piece of paper and started to make a sketch of this map. A young fellow observing my frustration and predicament advised that I could
get a free copy of the map at the tourist office nearby. This after the librarian had pointed out an ancient looking book entitled Indian Tourist Today. Glancing at the cover, I expected it to have been published in the 50's but it was in fact 1994, only 16 years ago, but flicking through revealed no maps or pictures at all. So off I pedalled and finally found the tourist office amongst the busy hooting traffic. There a young man handed me a couple of maps and some leaflets for the Kerala region.
He directed me onto a road which led past a YMCA which he advised would cost around 1000rupees.
I decicded to head out of the city heasing east towarda the coast. On the way, I stopped for a beer in a busy bar . Kingfisher Lager seems to dominate with the strongest being around 6% and dearer than SriLankan Lion which is up to 8.8%, the latter I would most often dillute with 50% water to get 2 beers in effect. Thus fortified, I proceeded my journey over a busy and bumpy road some 20kms away. I headed directly to Kovalam beach which tirnedd out to be littered with day touriists and their discarded waste. I pushed the bike past a beach building into a palm grove and sat down to have some bread and jam which I'd bought along the way. A local map showed a harbour nearby and I cycled back up the hill to reach a main road heading south. Then onto a smaller track which had a lighthouse signposted. Following this road alongside a steep edge leading to the sea past some small houses and shanty's with occasional signs pointing to resorts in amongst the messy
village streeta. No evidence of litter colllection or bins anywhere made for a dirty untidy area. Then amongst the debris, a Mosque appears and across the fishing harbour, a Christian church stands as though competing for attention. I trundled on and typically met with an accomodation tout who assessed my budget to some extent and showed me to a concrete lump of a house where I was shown a grubby room with basic shower and loo for a min. Haggled down price of 300 Rupees, or just over £4.30 each night. The most I had paid in SriLanka Rupees had been 800 or around 400 Indian Rupees, nearly £6 until I wisened up and searched out similar places starting at 200, just over a pound.
I didn't rate the room I was being offered and always am inclined to compare at least one alternative and definitely without the tout who had his cut built into the price, I headed up the hill and came across a big Christian house, obviously so by the bible passages and references painted on the walls outside. I knocked and a middle aged Indian Lady came to the door to find me wearily leaning against my bike. Exchanging smiles, I asked about a room, while miming that it was a big house and that I hoped there was a place for me to stay tge night. Clearly not speaking any English, she beckoned me to sit on the porch and wait while she spoke with another on the phone. 5 minutes later a Gent came through the gate having arrived by Tuk Tuk and consulted with the lady briefly who handed him a note then went to leave again, only to return soon after paying his fare.
He then introduced himself as the householder and sat with me and shared a cup of tea while I was able to explain my hopes for the night. I was given a room which seemed to be used for storeing stuff and sewing. One of the two beds cleared madee ample room and there was an ensuite shower and loo. I met with their son and enjoyed a beef curry. Showering and early to sleep, but awoken at 2130 after an hour or so to enquire if I wanted to eat again. Politely declining, I returned to slumber and slept right through some heavy rain. It gad been a long haul from Colombo where I had arrived at the airport late in the evening and had not slept a wink throughout the night before.
I wandered down to the fish market in the mirning and haggled for a large pieapple for breakfast on the way back. Packed, said my thanks and farewells, I cycled up the hill again and went in search or another beach for a swim. All along the coast, are tiny houses up agaist the hill, most of which are a stonethrow from the beach. I followed a small path between a row or houses to a pathe which lead to a pleasant looking beach even though there were signs of black oil in the sand. Turns out according to one resort owner, that this is not oil at all, but naturally a mixture of black and white sand. He thought it may be caused by an abundance of mussels and other shell fish. I was shown to a basement room with ensuite and negotiated two nights for 500R which I felt reasonable. There are many fewer tourists this year and the property owners are accepting what they can to avoid otherwise empty rooms. I was two minutes walk to the beach down some steps past a
reasonable resturant where I breakfasted and swapped warm for cold beer a couple of times. Swimming was ok but waves breaking close to the steep shore. The nearby village was a steep ride up the hill about 1.5kms away where I could get a good curry with the locals served up on a large banana leaf with water from the jug. 40R gets you all the rice you can eat with a good selection of veg. Curries and sauses. Added portions of fish cost 15 or 20r more.
So after 3 days around Kovalam, it was time to head north.
I reached Varkala beach in the evening after a drenching rain which although very wet is pleasantly warm. A Tuk Tuk driver offered to show me to a reasonably priced room and I followed him at first and decided to wander off the road in the darkness towards a Hindu Temple calling its community to a gathering. Enquiries for a room were met with directions back to the main road where I was rediscovered by the taxi driver who once again beckoned me to follow another 2kms along some very dark and flooded tracks. Finally we came to the resort of Varkalla, North Cliff' with its many hotels and residences. I managed to squeeze the price to 325r a night and promptly slept. In the morning, I went to look about and had a good swim. The best swim on my trip so far. I must have been in the water riding the waves for a good while before returning to recce for alternative room/s. I found another place comparable and agreed 500r for 3 more nights. The town was around
3kms away and I was able to buy some quick drying shorts for swimming and post some goodies back home for Julie and the children. In Town, there was a good place 'Mango Drive in Resturant' to have a great veg curry for 40r. There I met the temporary town hippie Taj from Canada who has decided to travel permanently now that he has sold his nursery business so reckons at 59, he no longer needs to work but can move around the works on a constant tour. He had been in Varkala for a couple of months I think, at first renting a small house at 1200r per month. He is planning to go to Malaysia next so may bump into him again possibly. Chances are thin, but a fella I met motorcycling from Ancona Italy met in the street once and in a resturant again by chance while we were in Istanbul!
Varkala is a popular resort up against a cliff overlooking the ever warm Arabian sea. At night, Hundreds of fishing boat lights are seen several miles offshore. Good sea food can be had and although prices are higher than probably most of the locals would be prepaired to pay, I had a large Blue Marlin steak chips and salad for almost £3. If one can even get it back home or in Europe, in that setting ovelooking a moonlit sea with good music blending with the lapping waves down on the shore below, the price would surely be many many times this much.
A further 3 nights later, some photos along the beach,several swims and good meals, I was reluctant to leave but ever on with my bike tyres beginning to show rather worn tyres and gear changes now not easily had. Faith, that I would find good beaches and surf further north.
I followed a small road north following the lagoons or backwaters which the literature enthuises about promoting boat rides and overnight stays on for,er fishing boats wich have been converted to mini floating residences for folks to cruise on enjoying fresh fish meals along the way. I started to look for a room in the evening but foud none so knocked on the door of a small house on the second row back fron the beach in a dominantly fishing village. I beckoned the lady who came to thw door to follow me across her sandy front garden shared with her absent neighbour and explained that I wanted to pitch my tent on the sand for the night. she appeared to understand and agreed before returning indoors. I started to pitch in the twilight and before long many of the villagers came along to witneas this strange traveller with even stranger ativity of setting up camp with a cloth house. Before long I was surrounded by curious folk and one of which anounced
authoritavely that I could not stay since the owner of the property was away and had been informed of my presence and intentions and had forbidden my being there. I explained to this village elder who had goodish English that I had asked the lady in the adjoining house and had been given permission. It was not for her to do so and she had probably misunderstood me so I would have to move on. I accepted, though annoyed saying that I was suprised at the lack of welcome and that I would appreciate if this gentleman could please ask the lady who I had thought given me permission, if I could move my tent in front of her hoise some 5 m away. He then explained that I could stay in his garden nearby. Gratefully, I accepted his offer and he waited 10 minutes whule I packed up then accompanied him home. There he introduced me to his wife and some family who were visiting for a funeral. They invited me for dinner and breakfast in the morning. I also met some of their grown up
children, a philosophy student and a teacher of psychology.
With many thanks after a comfortable dry night in the tent, I parted to the north, but realised 12kms down the road that I had left my cycle helmet so had to add another 24kms to my journey that day in order to retrieve it. In the evening of the 6th December, I reached Alappuzha. I had a beer in a beach front resturant and got chatting to a lady from Quebec who is fluent in French and Spanish but whose English is limited but better than my French which I have not had to stutter since my high school days more than 30 years ago. But we managed in part and it was after ten in the evening when she wondered off and I started to scout about for a room. It being very dark, with those places I did find seemingly locked up for the night. There was one security gaurd who advised that the rooms were 7000 per night equivalent to my monthly accom. budget so I decided to pitch on the beach. Up early for a swim, I returned to my tent to find a gentleman waiting. He
was a jounalist from the local newspaper who had been tipped off by a friend playing football on the beach. News travels fast via mobile phones these days. Several photos and a story followed to ensure my celebrity/tramp status. I have now seen my colour photo mugshot and gobbledegook printed article running to about 400 words in the paper which I have photographed and will have translated to check what has been written.
Later I found the beachfront Mandala mini hotel which was full but they offered a patch of sand for my tent in which I slept for a further two nights, having access to a loo and shower. On the third night I took a room then moved on. Next door to Mandala there is a neater place with some freindly staff, good hammocks and better but slow arriving breakfast. I met some German, Austrian, and Portugese folk and one day we took a trip a couple of miles offshore on a local fishing boat which trawled for a good catch of prawns and a large crab which we enjoyed later.
Having moved on, I am now at Fort Kochi, an historcal port town with Portugese, Dutch, English and Jewish influences. I attended a service a St Francis, the oldest Christian church in India this morning and am staying 2 nights at the very comfotable and poshest so far Fort Garden Residency resulting from a visit to the Church yesterday afternoon at a very reasonable cost.
I will move on again at around 11am tomorrow 13/12)10 and may stay at Cherai beach on an Island , a short ferry crossing and about 15kms nearby to the north. I see that in 2 days time I will have been travelling for 3 months. I started out with £1000 in cash and have paid for all travel apart from flights, accomodation and food. I am now left with £120. My average daily spend is now just under the targeted £10 and reducing. I will need to buy some new tyres and an innertube soon but may have to widen the valve hole to accept a regular innertube fitting. My back tyre punctured for the 6th time today so hope I can get all sorted soon. All for now.
Oh, and hope that any readers are enjoying the run up to Cristmas. I know how strange it will feel being away from the my family for the first time. Here in Fort Kochi there are many christian folk and I have enjoyed hearing Christmas carols being sung including this morning a favourate of mine I first remember hearing when 7 years old which I call A Rump a Pum Pum. I'm sure you know it.

Good body surfing finally

I am in Varkala beach at present and have been here for 3 nights and have decided to stay one more day as the swimming is really good with wonderful waves. the seafood is also good although somewhat more expensive compared to the regular curry and rice that I have mostly been eating. I ate a good portion of Blue Marlin soe chips and salad and a coffee for justunder 3 pounds the night before last which I was able to cut myself.

My accomodation is a large comfotable room with ceiling fan mozzie net and ensuite loo and shower for just about 2.50 pounds per night.

I have met some western travellers here as well as some local people who seem freindly but a bit more stressed compared to many local people in SriLanka. They are less curious here with this being a faily popular tourist resort and I think life is harder for most. Litter is still a problem that folks just don't seem to be at all bothered about with little concern about all the plastic which is clogging the environment and along the beach cliffs.

Every evening when the sun lowers below the sea horizon, there a suddernly many lights visible offshore. I looks like a long town some 10 miles away but they are the fishing boat lights. I think that they are mainly static line fishing since no obvious trawling movement can be seen.

I have decided to travel north up the coast from here and then perhap at some stage head into the Western Ghat mountains when I'm feeling adventurously energetic again.

I have this morning had a trial at tghe local post offibce in order to send a small Christmas parcel back home. There is no orderly manner in which people are served so it seems the survival of the fittest prevails. One lady seemed to be doing all the work while othe staff were not too engaged and people waited a long time to get their business done.

I will copy and paste this for my blog since although I have typed several words onto my cell phone, I have yet organised a hotspot wifi zone for downloading.

All the best

S.

4th Day India

I have spent 3 nights here in India so far. First at a private house which was large so I went in and asked if they had a spare room and hey presto.

Then 2 nights near a beach where I swam in a basement room with ensuite for 3.50 pounds per night. The resort is quite an expensive one so luck to get cheap accom. They are normally busy though but this year business for them is very low so far so can haggle.

I am in the Kerala region which is south west and now heading north along the coast to Verkala beach where I hope the sea is good to swim. There were some rocks before and a steep shore so waves breaking onto the shore means no body surfing. After one or two nights I will probably head inland to some backwater areas and the mountains which rise to over 2000m. Will be much cooler. Here its a little cooler than SriLanka and not quite so humid so far. Today is overcast with fine drizzle making pleasant cool cycling.

Saw lots of fishing from boats and manually from the shore with massive net which needs some 40 men to handle and haul slowly back to the beach.

Been eating more curry with vegetable and fish with the occasional beer, which is called Kingfisher the king of good times apparently. ot as strong as some of the beer in SriLanka which I was able to add water to.

Roads here are filled with crazy drivers and am so sick of blasted horns all the time. But eventually becoming immune to them.

I believe you are having some really cold weather and that it may have been snowing in the south. Some fella from Wales said that lowest Nov. temps recorded prevailing at present so hope all is well and that you are all warm enough. Remember there is something that the children can use as a sled left over from before. Must be in the sheds somewhere.


I managed to pick up a lonely planet guide to South India so have lots of info even though about 8 years old, should be fine reference.

Bye to SriLanka

0630hrs here at the airport and I have an hour to wait for flight to India. Heading to the south west to a place called.

Trivendrem or as per my ticket the right mouthfull of Thiruvananthapuram only about 45 minutes away.

Must have a quick read about what to expect.

Finally got my Indian visa sorted and then spent a few days travelling along the coast here south of Columbo and reached just beyond Galle where I had a good swim earlier today and luckily got a lift back to the aiport in a van headed here to collect someone else arriving from England.

Been really good here and now looking ahead.

All for now and hope to catch up soon.